Aquaphor Healing Ointment is oil-based. It contains no water at all, making it what pharmacists call an anhydrous (water-free) formulation. Its active ingredient is petrolatum at 41%, and nearly every other ingredient in the formula is also derived from oil or wax. That said, Aquaphor isn’t purely oil the way Vaseline is, and the distinction matters for how it works on your skin.
What’s Actually in Aquaphor
Petrolatum makes up 41% of Aquaphor and serves as both the active ingredient and the base of the ointment. The remaining ingredients are mineral oil (another petroleum derivative), ceresin (a mineral wax from shale rock), lanolin alcohol (a waxy substance from sheep’s wool), glycerin, panthenol (a form of vitamin B5), and bisabolol (derived from chamomile). With the exception of glycerin, every ingredient in the formula is either an oil, a wax, or a fat-soluble compound.
Glycerin is the one water-soluble ingredient in the mix. It’s a humectant, meaning it pulls moisture toward itself. This is actually what separates Aquaphor from plain petroleum jelly. Vaseline is 100% petrolatum, so it only sits on top of skin and prevents moisture from escaping. Aquaphor does the same thing but also actively draws in hydration thanks to the glycerin. That combination of sealing and attracting moisture is why many people find Aquaphor more effective as a moisturizer than straight Vaseline.
How the Oil Base Works on Skin
Your skin constantly loses water to the air through a process called transepidermal water loss. Oil-based products like Aquaphor create a physical barrier on the skin’s surface that slows this process dramatically. Think of it like putting a lid on a pot of simmering water. The moisture your skin already has stays trapped underneath.
Because Aquaphor is anhydrous, it can also blend with water or water-based solutions to form an emulsion. In practical terms, this means applying it to slightly damp skin can boost its effectiveness. The ointment locks that surface moisture in while the glycerin continues pulling hydration from the environment. This is why dermatologists often recommend applying thick ointments right after bathing, when skin is still slightly wet.
Aquaphor vs. Vaseline vs. Creams
These three categories sit on a spectrum of oil content. Pure Vaseline is 100% petrolatum, the most oil-heavy option. Aquaphor sits in the middle at 41% petrolatum plus additional oils and waxes, with a small humectant component. Water-based creams and lotions (like Eucerin or CeraVe) contain significant amounts of water and feel lighter on the skin but don’t form as strong of an occlusive barrier.
For severely dry, cracked, or irritated skin, the heavier oil-based options tend to perform better because they seal more effectively. For everyday facial moisturizing or oily skin types, a water-based cream is typically more practical. Aquaphor occupies a useful middle ground: strongly occlusive like Vaseline, but slightly more moisturizing due to its humectant content.
Lanolin Sensitivity to Watch For
One ingredient worth knowing about is lanolin alcohol. It’s the waxy oil extracted from sheep’s wool, and it’s one of the more common allergens found in skincare products. Among people with existing dermatitis in North America, lanolin allergy rates range from about 1.2% to 6.9%. In European populations, the rate is lower, around 0.4%. If you’ve ever had a reaction to wool-based skincare products, Aquaphor could cause redness, itching, or irritation. Vaseline, being nothing but petrolatum, sidesteps this issue entirely.
Using Aquaphor on Acne-Prone Skin
The manufacturer states that Aquaphor is noncomedogenic, meaning it shouldn’t clog pores. For people with dry to normal skin, this generally holds true. But the oil-based formula can cause problems for people who are already prone to breakouts. The heavy occlusive layer can trap dirt and excess sebum against the skin, and a few case studies have linked Aquaphor use on the face to acne flare-ups in oily skin types.
If your skin tends toward oily, using Aquaphor on your face may create too much of a moisture seal. The better strategy is reserving it for dry areas like lips, hands, elbows, and heels, where the heavy oil base is an advantage rather than a liability. For the face, a lighter water-based moisturizer gives you hydration without the pore-sealing effect.