Most eyeliners sold by major brands in the U.S. and EU contain low levels of potentially harmful substances, but the amounts are generally small enough to fall within regulatory safety limits. The real risks depend on what type of eyeliner you use, where it was manufactured, and how you apply it. Traditional eyeliners like kohl, surma, and some kajal products are a different story entirely, with some containing dangerously high levels of lead.
The Lead Problem in Traditional Eyeliners
The most serious toxicity concern with eyeliner involves lead in traditional products. A study published in PLOS Global Public Health tested 145 eyeliners and found that traditional eyeliners (kohl, surma, and kajal) had a median lead concentration of 10 ppm, compared to just 0.06 ppm in nontraditional products. But that median obscures extreme outliers: some kohl products contained up to 840,000 ppm of lead. Traditional powder eyeliners had a median lead concentration of 410,000 ppm, meaning lead was a primary ingredient, not a trace contaminant.
These aren’t abstract numbers. In 2011, lead poisoning in a 6-month-old infant in Boston was traced to a traditional eyeliner purchased in Nigeria containing 826,000 ppm lead. In 2024, the New York City health department reported lead poisoning in a mother and her four children linked to surma containing 390,000 ppm lead. Perhaps most alarming, some traditional eyeliners labeled as “lead-free” contained up to 610,000 ppm lead. That label offers no reliable protection.
Eyeliners manufactured in the U.S. and EU had a median lead concentration of 0.94 ppm, dramatically lower than products from Afghanistan (29 ppm median) and other low- and middle-income countries (2.8 ppm median). If you use kohl, surma, or similar traditional eyeliners, especially powder formulations purchased abroad or from informal sellers, lead exposure is a genuine health risk worth taking seriously.
What’s in Standard Commercial Eyeliners
The black pigment in most conventional eyeliners comes from carbon black, a nearly pure form of elemental carbon (98%+ purity) manufactured under controlled conditions. The FDA evaluated carbon black and approved it for use in eyeliner, eye shadow, mascara, and other cosmetics under the name D&C Black No. 2, with purity restrictions that limit contamination from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), heavy metals, and ash. The EU has similar purity standards. Carbon black itself is not the same as charcoal or soot, and regulated versions carry far fewer impurities than the name might suggest.
Beyond pigments, liquid and gel eyeliners may contain preservatives that slowly release small amounts of formaldehyde. Ingredients like quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, and diazolidinyl urea are all formaldehyde releasers. Concentrations as low as 200 ppm of formaldehyde can trigger allergic reactions in sensitized individuals. If you notice redness, itching, or swelling around your eyes after using a new eyeliner, a formaldehyde-releasing preservative could be the cause. Check the ingredient list for these names if you suspect a reaction.
PFAS in Waterproof Formulas
Waterproof and long-lasting eyeliners raise a separate concern. A study published in Environmental Science & Technology Letters tested North American cosmetics and found that 58% of eye products had high fluorine levels, indicating the presence of PFAS, sometimes called “forever chemicals.” These compounds help cosmetics resist water and oil, which is exactly what makes a product waterproof. PFAS don’t break down easily in the body or the environment, and ongoing research continues to examine their long-term health effects. Foundations (63%) and lip products (55%) had even higher rates. If minimizing PFAS exposure matters to you, choosing non-waterproof formulas is the most straightforward step.
Hormone-Disrupting Chemicals
Some eyeliners contain parabens and phthalates, chemicals that can mimic or interfere with hormones at certain exposure levels. Both have shown weak estrogenic and anti-androgenic activity in lab and animal studies. A study in Environmental Health Perspectives gave adolescent girls personal care products free of these chemicals for just three days and measured a 27 to 45% drop in urinary concentrations of certain phthalates, parabens, triclosan, and oxybenzone. Dermal absorption from cosmetics applied to the skin is likely the primary route of exposure for parabens. The eyelid skin is thinner and more permeable than skin elsewhere on the body, which makes the eye area particularly relevant for absorption.
The health effects in humans remain less clear than the lab findings suggest, but the speed at which chemical levels dropped in that study shows how directly cosmetics contribute to your body’s chemical burden.
Where You Apply It Matters
A 2025 study published in Nature’s Scientific Reports found that applying eyeliner on the inner lash line (the waterline) significantly increased dry eye symptoms compared to applying it on the outer lash line. People who lined the waterline had notably higher rates of elevated ocular surface disease scores. The reason is mechanical: the inner lash line sits directly over the meibomian glands, which produce the oily layer of your tear film. Eyeliner particles can block these gland openings, destabilize the tear film, and cause chronic irritation.
Each blink pushes eyeliner particles from the waterline onto the eye surface and into the tear film. Over time, this repeated contact can compromise the glands themselves. If you experience dryness, grittiness, or irritation, switching to outer lash line application can reduce exposure to the eye surface and lower the risk of ongoing symptoms.
Bacterial Contamination Over Time
Toxicity isn’t limited to what’s in the formula at purchase. Every time you use an eyeliner pencil or dip a brush into a liquid pot, you introduce bacteria from your skin and lash line into the product. The FDA notes that because of repeated microbial exposure during use, industry experts recommend replacing eye makeup every three months. Dried-out products should be discarded rather than rehydrated, since adding water or saliva introduces even more bacteria. Sharing eyeliner multiplies the contamination risk.
How to Choose a Safer Eyeliner
- Avoid traditional kohl, surma, and powder kajal unless you can verify the product has been independently tested for lead. “Lead-free” labels on these products have proven unreliable.
- Choose products made in the U.S. or EU, where purity standards for pigments and heavy metals are stricter and more consistently enforced.
- Skip waterproof formulas if you want to reduce PFAS exposure. Standard formulas perform well for daily wear.
- Check for formaldehyde releasers on the ingredient list if you have sensitive skin or a history of contact dermatitis. Look for quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, or diazolidinyl urea.
- Apply on the outer lash line rather than the waterline to protect your tear film and meibomian glands.
- Replace liquid and pencil eyeliners every three months to limit bacterial buildup.
Resources like the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep database rate individual products on a hazard scale, which can help you compare specific brands and formulas before buying.