Lithops, commonly known as Living Stones, are specialized succulent plants native to the arid, rocky regions of Southern Africa. Their stone-mimicking appearance is an evolutionary adaptation that helps them evade herbivores. Lithops store significant amounts of water within their two thick, fleshy leaves, making their care requirements counter-intuitive. Because they thrive where rainfall is infrequent and seasonal, their survival depends on a precise, regulated watering schedule. Applying moisture at the wrong time is the most common cause of their failure.
Understanding the Lithops Growth Cycle
The precise timing of watering is dictated by a distinct, four-phase annual growth cycle. The most delicate period is the Splitting Phase, which typically begins in late winter and extends through spring. During this time, a new pair of leaves develops, drawing all necessary moisture and nutrients from the existing outer pair.
The old leaves shrivel and dry out, becoming a papery husk as their contents are absorbed by the new growth. Watering during this stage interrupts the process, causing the old leaves to remain plump and potentially leading to the new leaves rotting or bursting. Following spring renewal, Lithops enter their first period of Dormancy during the heat of mid-summer. This inactivity is a defense mechanism against high temperatures and requires a complete cessation of watering.
The Active Growth Phase begins in late summer or early fall, signaling the end of summer dormancy and preparation for flowering. This is the only time the plant actively utilizes external moisture from the soil to plump up its leaves and produce a flower. After flowering, the plant enters a Cool Dormancy throughout the winter months, during which the next set of new leaves begins to form internally.
The Seasonal Watering Calendar
The seasonal calendar provides a framework, but the plant’s physical state takes precedence over the date. Spring (March through May) is the Splitting Phase and requires zero water. Water must be withheld until the old outer leaves are completely dried and shriveled into thin, papery sheaths. This ensures the new leaves are firm and fully formed.
Once the old leaves are completely gone, a very light, initial watering can be applied to the newly emerged leaves. Early Summer (June and July) marks the start of hot-weather dormancy, and watering should cease entirely. If the plant shows severe dehydration, such as the tops sinking or becoming extremely wrinkled, a small sip of water may be given, only enough to moisten the top half-inch of soil.
Late Summer and Fall (August to November) is the main growing season, and the only time deep watering is appropriate. Once the plant shows renewed activity, such as the fissure slightly separating in preparation for a flower, thorough watering can begin. Watering frequency should be low, generally every three to four weeks, allowing the soil to dry out completely between applications. The plant signals its need for water by the tops becoming slightly wrinkled or less plump. In Winter (December through February), watering must stop as the plant enters its final dormancy and the new leaf cycle begins.
Application and Troubleshooting
The methodology for applying water is as important as the timing. During the active growth phase, a deep soak is the preferred technique. Water the soil until it drains completely out of the pot’s bottom holes, then discard any standing water in the saucer. Watering in the morning is beneficial, allowing excess moisture to evaporate quickly before cooler evening temperatures set in.
Soil Requirements
The soil medium must be extremely fast-draining, with a high mineral content. Use materials such as pumice, coarse sand, or perlite mixed into a small amount of potting soil. This specialized soil ensures that the roots are not exposed to prolonged moisture.
Troubleshooting Watering Errors
The two most frequent errors in care are overwatering and underwatering. Overwatering is often fatal, causing the plant’s leaves to become mushy, translucent, or burst open due to excessive internal pressure. If this occurs, the rot quickly spreads to the root system, leaving little chance of recovery. Conversely, underwatering causes the plant’s top surface to appear wrinkled, puckered, or slightly sunken, indicating it is using its internal reserves. This condition is easily corrected during the correct watering season. If there is uncertainty about whether to water, it is safest not to.