Philodendron Red Emerald: Care, Propagation, and Problems

The Philodendron ‘Red Emerald’ (Philodendron erubescens ‘Red Emerald’) is a popular houseplant cherished for its distinctive coloration and easy care. This cultivar, a selection from the species Philodendron erubescens, is a climbing aroid native to the tropical rainforests of Central and South America. Its vining growth habit makes it a dynamic feature indoors, where it can be grown as a trailer or trained up a support structure.

What Makes the ‘Red Emerald’ Unique

The ‘Red Emerald’ is identifiable by the deep, reddish-maroon hue that colors its stems and the undersides of its leaves, which gives the plant its common name. The leaves are large, heart-shaped, and possess a glossy, dark green surface that contrasts with the red tones of the petiole and stem. New foliage often emerges with a brighter red or bronze tint before deepening to mature green.

This philodendron is a vigorous climber, utilizing aerial roots that emerge from the nodes along its stems to grasp onto surfaces. In nature, it begins life rooted in the ground but climbs trees, sometimes becoming a full epiphyte. Indoors, it maintains this vining habit. Provide a moss pole or trellis for support, allowing it to reach several feet in height. The ‘Red Emerald’ is a specific cultivar, developed through a breeding program to enhance its ornamental characteristics, and is not a wild species.

Comprehensive Care Guide

To maintain health and vibrant coloration, provide bright, indirect light. This encourages robust growth and the development of its signature hues. Placing the plant near an east or north-facing window, or a few feet away from a bright south or west-facing window, is ideal. Direct, intense sunlight can scorch the leaves and cause discoloration.

A proper watering regimen is important. Allow the soil to dry out partially between waterings, waiting until the top inch or two of the growing medium is dry to the touch. Overwatering is a common mistake that can lead to root rot. Ensure the pot has adequate drainage holes and avoid standing water. Watering frequency varies based on temperature and light, but typically averages once a week during the active growing season.

The ‘Red Emerald’ performs best in a well-draining, highly aerated soil mix that mimics its tropical forest environment. Use a specialized aroid mix, or blend standard potting soil with materials like perlite, coco coir, or orchid bark. This provides moisture retention and proper airflow around the roots, helping prevent compaction and root issues.

Since this philodendron originates in the tropics, it appreciates warmer temperatures, ideally thriving between 65°F and 85°F (18°C–29°C). It benefits from increased humidity, with levels between 40% and 80% being optimal to support its lush foliage. In dry indoor environments, increase humidity using a humidifier, grouping it with other plants, or placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water.

During the spring and summer growing seasons, a consistent feeding schedule supports vigorous development. Apply a balanced, water-soluble liquid fertilizer, diluted to half strength, every four to six weeks. Reduce or stop fertilization entirely during the fall and winter months when growth naturally slows down.

Providing a vertical support like a moss pole encourages the plant to climb, which often results in larger, more mature leaves.

Propagation and Common Issues

The easiest way to multiply the ‘Red Emerald’ is through stem cuttings, taken during the spring or summer growing season. Cut a healthy section of stem using clean, sharp tools, ensuring the cutting includes at least one node. The node is where the leaf meets the stem and where new roots will emerge. Cuttings can be rooted in various mediums, including moist, well-draining soil mix, sphagnum moss, or a jar of water until a robust root system develops.

While generally resilient, the ‘Red Emerald’ may occasionally exhibit signs of distress. Yellowing leaves often signal overwatering, which can lead to root rot, but may also indicate a nutrient deficiency or too much direct sun exposure. Browning leaf tips or edges point to low humidity levels.

Inspect the plant regularly for common houseplant pests like mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids. These pests feed on the plant’s sap and can cause discoloration and stunted growth. Minor infestations can be treated by wiping the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or applying an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution.