Frilly knickers are decorative undergarments defined by ornamentation such as ruffles, lace, ribbons, and gathered fabric. This style represents a historical shift in undergarment design, moving beyond simple, protective layers to incorporate complex aesthetic elements. The construction and decoration of these garments reflect evolving perceptions of femininity and hidden fashion, establishing them as a distinctive item within the broader history of clothing.
The Historical Origin
The development of the frilly knicker began with the advent of “drawers” in the early 19th century, initially worn for warmth and modesty beneath increasingly sheer and voluminous gowns. Before this time, many women wore only a chemise and petticoats. Drawers provided necessary lower-body coverage, especially with the popularity of the cage crinoline. These early drawers were often knee-length, made of plain white cotton or linen, and constructed as two separate legs joined at the waistband, hence the term “pair.”
As the Victorian era progressed, undergarments evolved from purely utilitarian items to objects that reflected the wearer’s social status and taste. By the 1850s, drawers were commonly embellished with lace and decorative tucks along the leg edges. This decorative impulse accelerated with the adoption of the knicker, which often featured a closed crotch seam by the 1870s, replacing the earlier open design. By the 1890s, the legs were significantly widened and adorned with deep lace frills, establishing the decorative undergarment as a standard element of fashionable wardrobes.
Anatomy and Design
The defining features of frilly knickers are rooted in the combination of a loose, voluminous cut and extensive surface decoration. Early versions were cut with a wide, almost bloomer-like silhouette, often accommodating a circumference of up to 20 inches around the knee. This allowed for freedom of movement under expansive skirts. Primary materials included fine, breathable fabrics like cotton lawn, cambric, or silk, with more expensive versions incorporating flannel or merino wool for added warmth.
The frills themselves were typically constructed from multiple tiers of gathered fabric, lace, or a combination of both, concentrated at the leg openings or hemline. Common decorative techniques included broderie anglaise lace, fine tucks, and the insertion of satin ribbon woven through the eyelets of the lace. In the late Victorian and Edwardian periods, the transition to “combinations”—a garment combining the chemise and drawers—saw the frills and lace become even more elaborate. These often featured 10-inch deep lace frills at the hem to create a striking, flounced appearance.
Frilly Knickers in Modern Fashion and Culture
The modern interpretation of frilly knickers has largely transitioned from a discreet undergarment to a highly visible piece of decorative and performance wear. This style is now most frequently encountered in vintage revival movements and theatrical contexts, such as burlesque and cabaret, where the garment is intentionally designed for display. Contemporary designers often use soft stretch lace, sheer fabrics, and layered ruffles to create the voluminous, playful silhouette. They sometimes incorporate a high-waisted cut to evoke a mid-20th-century pin-up aesthetic.
The resurgence of the style is also evident in costume and niche fashion, where the layered ruffles, sometimes called the “rhumba” style, are a key element. These garments serve as costume pieces for themed events, cosplay, and other forms of dress-up, emphasizing a sense of playful glamour and historical reference. The continued cultural presence of the style is reinforced through media, appearing in period dramas like Bridgerton or cinematic representations of historical elegance such as Moulin Rouge. The garment symbolizes an era of elaborate, hidden fashion and theatrical femininity.