The Helichrysum and White Licorice blend is a specialized combination of botanical extracts valued in cosmetic and wellness industries. This formulation is gaining attention for its capacity to soothe sensitive skin and offer revitalizing effects. The extracts work together to address concerns such as uneven skin tone and irritation, representing a targeted approach to skin care.
Understanding the Botanical Sources
The blend draws its efficacy from two distinct plant sources, each with a history of use in traditional medicine. Helichrysum, derived from Helichrysum italicum and known as Immortelle or Everlasting, is a flowering plant native to the Mediterranean region. Historically, its extracts were used topically for inflammatory conditions, wound healing, and to soothe skin issues like hematoma and sunburn.
White Licorice is an extract from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a plant native to the Mediterranean, Middle East, and Asia. The term “white licorice” refers to a purified, hydrophobic fraction of the root extract. This purification isolates the most potent skin-brightening compounds while minimizing components that can lead to product discoloration. Licorice root was traditionally employed for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties to treat various skin irritations.
Synergistic Effects in Skin Health
The combination of these two extracts provides a powerful, dual-action mechanism that addresses both skin discoloration and inflammation simultaneously. The Helichrysum component provides anti-redness and reparative benefits, while the White Licorice introduces a pathway for evening skin tone.
The blend’s primary observable outcome is a noticeable reduction in skin redness and irritation. Helichrysum exhibits anti-erythematous activity, helping to visibly calm a reactive complexion. This soothing action is complemented by the anti-inflammatory properties of licorice, contributing to a less sensitive skin surface.
The blend excels at skin brightening and evening of tone. White Licorice specifically targets hyperpigmentation, while Helichrysum supports regeneration. Combining the inflammation-reducing effects of both plants with the pigment-regulating action of licorice manages post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation effectively. This makes the formulation beneficial for sensitive skin prone to developing dark spots following irritation.
Biochemical Pathways of Action
The formulation’s efficacy is rooted in the bioactive compounds contributed by each plant extract. From the White Licorice, the isoflavan glabridin is the key compound responsible for its skin-brightening effect. Glabridin acts as a non-cytotoxic inhibitor of the tyrosinase enzyme, which is the rate-limiting step in the synthesis of melanin. By suppressing tyrosinase activity, glabridin prevents the overproduction of pigment, leading to a more uniform complexion.
The Helichrysum extract contributes anti-inflammatory and reparative compounds. Neryl acetate, a major component in some Helichrysum essential oils, has been shown to enhance skin barrier function, which is fundamental to maintaining healthy skin. Helichrysum also contains acetophenones, phloroglucinols, and compounds like arzanol, which modulate inflammatory markers.
The anti-inflammatory effects of the blend are amplified because both ingredients target different points in the inflammation cascade. Licorice components, including glabridin, inhibit cyclooxygenase (COX) activity, a mechanism similar to some anti-inflammatory drugs. Helichrysum’s active molecules, such as arzanol, inhibit 5-lipoxygenase and primarily target microsomal prostaglandin E2 synthase (mPGES)-1, blocking the formation of pro-inflammatory mediators. This dual-plant approach provides a broad-spectrum modulation of the inflammatory response, significantly contributing to the soothing properties of the blend.
Consumer Guide to Product Formulation
Consumers seeking products with this blend should look for formulations such as serums, creams, and masks, where the ingredients can remain on the skin long enough to be absorbed. When reviewing an ingredient list, Glycyrrhiza glabra Root Extract indicates the licorice component. For the best brightening results, look for claims of “standardized” licorice extract, as the concentration of active glabridin can vary widely, from as low as 4% to as high as 40% in raw extracts.
The Helichrysum extract will be listed as Helichrysum italicum or Helichrysum stoechas flower extract, often dissolved in a water and glycerin base. Effective cosmetic formulations typically incorporate these extracts at a usage rate between 0.1% and 3%. Quality sourcing is important; a product that clearly lists the concentration or standardization of its active compounds generally indicates a higher-performing formulation.