Viscose is soft, breathable, and drapes beautifully, but it comes with a surprisingly long list of practical and environmental drawbacks. The biggest issues center on its fragility when wet (it loses about 60% of its strength), its tendency to shrink and pill, and the toxic chemicals involved in its production. Here’s what you should know before buying viscose clothing or home textiles.
It Falls Apart When Wet
Viscose’s most significant functional weakness is how dramatically it weakens in contact with water. The fabric loses roughly 60% of its tensile strength when wet, a far greater drop than cotton experiences. This means the fibers are at their most vulnerable during the exact moment you’re handling them most: washing, wringing, and hanging to dry. Wet viscose stretches out of shape easily, and aggressive handling in that state can cause tears or permanent distortion.
This weakness is why most viscose garments carry “dry clean only” or “hand wash” labels. Machine washing on a regular cycle with warm water and a standard spin can damage the fabric in a single wash. If you do wash viscose at home, cold water, a gentle cycle, and air drying on a flat surface are essential to keeping the garment intact.
Shrinkage Can Be Severe
Viscose is one of the most shrinkage-prone fabrics you can buy. When machine washed in hot water and tumble dried, 100% viscose can shrink by up to 25% in a single wash. That’s enough to turn a well-fitting blouse into something unwearable. Under gentler conditions (cold water, air drying), shrinkage is more typically in the 3 to 5% range, but even that can noticeably change the fit of a tailored piece.
Some manufacturers pre-treat viscose to reduce shrinkage, but unless the label specifically says the fabric has been pre-shrunk or treated, assume it will shrink. Blends with polyester or elastane tend to hold their dimensions better than pure viscose.
It Pills Faster Than Cotton
Viscose has lower wear resistance than cotton, and its fibers are prone to a process called fibrillation, where the surface of each fiber splinters into tiny fragments. Those fragments tangle together into pills, the small fuzzy balls that make fabric look worn out. In laboratory testing, viscose fabrics developed pills after fewer abrasion cycles than cotton, and the pilling was significantly more intense. The pills do eventually detach on their own after extended wear, but not before the garment looks noticeably degraded.
This means viscose clothing tends to show its age quickly, especially in areas that experience friction: underarms, inner thighs, and anywhere a bag strap rubs. If longevity matters to you, viscose is a poor choice for everyday basics you plan to wear heavily.
It Takes a Long Time to Dry
Viscose absorbs substantially more moisture than cotton. Its moisture regain rate is about 13%, compared to 8.5% for cotton. In practical terms, this means viscose soaks up more water during washing and takes longer to air dry. Since you can’t safely tumble dry it on high heat, you’re left waiting. In humid climates, drying time can stretch to a full day or more.
The high absorbency also affects how viscose feels in hot, humid weather. While it’s breathable, it can cling uncomfortably to skin once it absorbs sweat, and it dries slowly on the body compared to linen or synthetic moisture-wicking fabrics.
It Wrinkles Easily and Is Tricky to Iron
Viscose wrinkles readily, and those creases tend to set in quickly, especially when the fabric gets damp. Ironing viscose requires caution: the safe temperature is only around 110°C (the lowest setting on most irons, often marked with a single dot or the “silk” setting). Iron it on the reverse side while still slightly damp, ideally with a cloth between the iron and the fabric. Anything hotter risks scorching or leaving shiny marks on the surface.
For people who prefer low-maintenance clothing, this is a real drawback. You can’t just toss viscose in a suitcase, pull it out at your destination, and look presentable. Steaming is an alternative, but it adds another step to an already fussy care routine.
Colors Fade With Sun and Wear
Viscose has mediocre colorfastness, particularly when exposed to sunlight and repeated washing. Light fastness ratings for dyed viscose typically fall in the 3 to 4 range on a scale where 5 is excellent and 1 is very poor. Wet rubbing fastness is similarly middling. In practice, this means vibrant colors gradually wash out over time, and garments left near windows or dried in direct sunlight can develop uneven fading. Dark and bright shades are most visibly affected.
Production Involves Toxic Chemicals
The process of turning wood pulp into viscose fiber requires carbon disulfide, a volatile chemical solvent with well-documented health risks. Workers in viscose factories, particularly those exposed before modern safety standards were adopted, have shown elevated rates of peripheral neuropathy (nerve damage in the hands and feet), cardiovascular disease, and in cases of high exposure, neurological symptoms resembling Parkinson’s disease. The U.S. Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry identifies nerve damage as the most consistent adverse effect in exposed workers.
The environmental footprint extends beyond the factory floor. Carbon disulfide can enter wastewater from multiple points in the production process, including storage, the fiber-making process itself, and recovery systems. The U.S. EPA has studied these discharges and noted that current effluent guidelines do not specifically cover carbon disulfide from cellulose manufacturers, leaving a regulatory gap.
It Contributes to Deforestation
Viscose starts as wood pulp, and sourcing that pulp has historically driven logging in ancient and endangered forests. The nonprofit Canopy tracks the industry’s progress on this issue through its annual Hot Button Report. While roughly 70% of viscose producers now earn ratings indicating meaningful commitments to avoid sourcing from threatened forests, a segment of the industry still receives the lowest risk rating, meaning they remain at high risk of sourcing from ancient and endangered ecosystems or aren’t engaging with conservation efforts at all.
Even producers with better sourcing practices rely on tree plantations that require land, water, and years of growth. Viscose is often marketed as a sustainable alternative to polyester because it’s plant-based and biodegradable, but the full picture is more complicated. The chemical-intensive manufacturing process and the pressure on forests mean viscose occupies an awkward middle ground: better than petroleum-based synthetics in some ways, worse in others.
Not Ideal for Activewear or Heavy Use
Given its low wet strength, tendency to cling when damp, and slow drying time, viscose performs poorly in any application where moisture is a factor. It’s not suited for workout clothing, rainwear, or outdoor gear. Its low abrasion resistance also makes it a poor fit for upholstery, children’s clothing, or any garment that takes a beating. Viscose works best for occasion wear, flowy dresses, and pieces that see lighter, less frequent use, but even then, expect a shorter lifespan than you’d get from cotton or linen equivalents.