Cats need high-protein food, fresh water, a clean litter box, daily play, scratching surfaces, vertical space, and routine veterinary care. That list sounds simple, but each item has specifics that make the difference between a cat that’s merely surviving and one that’s genuinely thriving. Here’s what to get right.
A High-Protein Diet
Cats are obligate carnivores, meaning their bodies are built to run on animal protein. Adult cats need food that contains at least 26% protein on a dry-matter basis, while kittens and pregnant or nursing cats need at least 30%. Fat can make up anywhere from 8% to 40% of the diet successfully, so protein content is the more important number to check on the label.
One nutrient sets cats apart from dogs and most other pets: taurine. Cats cannot produce enough taurine on their own and must get it from food. A deficiency can lead to heart disease and irreversible retinal degeneration. Any commercial food labeled “complete and balanced” for cats will contain taurine, but homemade or dog-food diets often fall short. If you cook for your cat, work with a veterinary nutritionist to avoid gaps.
Enough Fresh Water
A healthy cat needs roughly 50 milliliters of water per kilogram of body weight each day. For an average-sized cat (4 to 5 kg), that works out to about 200 to 250 mL daily, or just under one cup. Cats eating wet food get a significant portion of that from their meals, while cats on a dry-food diet need to drink more on their own.
Many cats are picky about water. A flowing fountain often encourages drinking because cats evolved to prefer moving water over still puddles. Place water bowls away from the food dish and litter box, since cats instinctively avoid drinking near where they eat or eliminate. Multiple water stations around the house help, especially in larger homes.
A Clean Litter Box Setup
The general rule is one litter box per cat, plus one extra. Scoop waste daily and replace the litter you remove with a fresh layer. Once a week, dump all the litter, wash the box with soap and water, and refill it completely. Skipping this routine is one of the fastest ways to end up with a cat that starts avoiding the box and going elsewhere.
Most cats prefer unscented, clumping litter in an uncovered box. Covered boxes trap odors inside, which appeals to the owner but can repel the cat. Place boxes in quiet, low-traffic areas where your cat won’t feel cornered or startled.
Daily Interactive Play
Cats need physical exercise and mental stimulation every day, not just access to a toy mouse on the floor. A good starting point is two sessions of 15 to 20 minutes each day using wand toys, laser pointers (always end with a physical toy they can “catch”), or feather teasers. You can increase session length as your cat builds stamina and enthusiasm.
Play isn’t optional enrichment. It prevents obesity, reduces anxiety-driven behaviors like overgrooming, and satisfies the hunting instinct that’s hardwired into every domestic cat. Cats that don’t get enough stimulation often develop problems like nighttime hyperactivity, aggression, or destructive scratching. Puzzle feeders and food-dispensing toys add another layer of mental engagement, especially for indoor cats who don’t get the challenge of hunting.
Scratching Surfaces
Scratching is a biological need, not a behavioral problem. Cats scratch to maintain their claws, stretch their muscles, and leave both visual and scent marks on their territory. Punishing scratching or expecting a cat to stop doing it entirely will only redirect the behavior to your furniture.
Research on scratching preferences shows that adult cats tend to favor rope-covered posts, while kittens in controlled studies consistently preferred S-shaped cardboard scratchers over carpet, hemp, and other materials. Tall, simple upright posts of at least 3 feet are popular with adult cats because they allow a full-body stretch. Offer both vertical posts and flat or angled options, since individual cats vary. Place scratchers near doorways, sleeping areas, and furniture the cat already targets.
Vertical Space and Hiding Spots
Cats naturally climb, jump, and seek elevated resting spots. Being off the ground gives them a sense of security because they can survey their environment from a safe distance. In a home without vertical options, cats often end up on kitchen counters and refrigerators simply because those are the only high points available.
Cat trees, wall-mounted shelves, and window perches all satisfy this need. These structures offer vantage points, resting spots at different heights, and opportunities for active movement like jumping between levels. Equally important are hiding spots: covered beds, boxes, or spaces behind furniture where a cat can retreat when stressed. Cats that have both elevated perches and enclosed hiding places show less anxiety, particularly in multi-cat households or homes with young children.
Grooming Support
Cats spend about 25% of their waking hours grooming themselves, but that self-maintenance has limits. All that licking means they swallow loose fur, which can form hairballs. Daily brushing removes loose hair before your cat ingests it, reducing hairball frequency. Long-haired breeds like Persians and Maine Coons often need daily brushing to prevent painful mats, while short-haired cats generally do well with a few sessions per week.
Nail trimming every two to three weeks keeps claws from growing into the paw pads. If your cat resists, start by handling their paws regularly during calm moments so they get used to the sensation before you introduce clippers.
Dental Care
Between 50% and 90% of cats over four years old have some form of dental disease, making it one of the most common health problems in domestic cats. Gingivitis, tooth resorption, and periodontal infections cause pain that cats are skilled at hiding, so owners often don’t notice until the disease is advanced.
Regular tooth brushing is the most effective way to prevent plaque buildup. Use a toothpaste formulated specifically for cats, since human toothpaste contains ingredients that are toxic to them. A finger brush or small pet toothbrush works well. Even two to three times per week makes a measurable difference if daily brushing isn’t realistic. Dental treats and water additives can supplement brushing but don’t replace it.
Routine Veterinary Care
Core vaccines protect against three serious viral diseases (feline panleukopenia, feline herpesvirus, and feline calicivirus) plus rabies. After the initial kitten series and a one-year booster, these core vaccines are typically given every three years. Kittens under one year also receive a feline leukemia virus vaccine, which may continue annually for cats with outdoor access or exposure to cats of unknown status.
Beyond vaccines, annual vet visits catch problems early. Cats are masters at masking pain and illness, and conditions like kidney disease, hyperthyroidism, and diabetes become much more manageable with early detection. Indoor cats need checkups just as much as outdoor cats. Parasite prevention (fleas, ticks, and intestinal worms) should be discussed with your vet based on your cat’s lifestyle and geographic region.
Sleep and Safe Territory
Cats sleep between 13 and 16 hours per day, cycling between light dozes of 15 to 30 minutes and deeper sleep phases that last only about five minutes at a time. This pattern means cats are easily woken and prefer sleeping spots where they feel secure.
Provide multiple resting options: a warm bed near a window, a quiet spot in a closet, a shelf on a cat tree. Cats rotate sleeping locations based on temperature, sunlight, and their sense of safety at any given time. Forcing a cat to sleep in one designated spot rarely works and isn’t necessary. What matters is that every sleeping option feels protected from sudden noise, foot traffic, and other pets.