A basic wired connection requires just three things: an Ethernet port on your device, an Ethernet cable, and a router or switch to connect to. But depending on your setup, whether you’re linking a single laptop to your router or wiring an entire house, the full list of hardware can grow. Here’s everything you need to know about each component.
The Ethernet Cable
The cable itself is the most fundamental piece of hardware. Ethernet cables use an RJ45 connector (the wide, clear plastic clip) on each end and come in several categories that determine how fast data can travel. For most homes and small offices, these are the ones worth knowing:
- Cat5e: Supports speeds up to 1 Gbps at frequencies of 100 MHz. This is the minimum you should use today.
- Cat6: Supports up to 10 Gbps at short distances (under about 30 meters) and 1 Gbps at the full 100-meter channel length. A strong choice if you have or plan to get a 2.5 Gbps connection from your internet provider.
- Cat6a: Supports 10 Gbps at the full 100-meter distance. Best for future-proofing or demanding setups.
All standard Ethernet cables max out at 100 meters (roughly 328 feet) per run. Beyond that, the signal degrades and you’ll need a switch or repeater to extend it. For most people, Cat6 hits the sweet spot of price and performance, especially since 2.5 Gbps internet plans are becoming more common and Cat6 handles that speed comfortably.
A Router
Your router is what connects your local network to the internet. It takes the single connection from your modem (or acts as a modem-router combo) and shares that connection across multiple devices, each getting its own local address. Most routers have between two and four Ethernet ports on the back for wired devices. If you’re only connecting one or two things, the router’s built-in ports may be all you need.
Pay attention to the speed rating of your router’s Ethernet ports. Older routers often have gigabit (1 Gbps) ports, while newer models may include 2.5 Gbps multi-gigabit ports. If your internet plan delivers speeds above 1 Gbps, a router with at least one 2.5 Gbps port is necessary to avoid bottlenecking your connection before it even reaches your devices.
A Network Switch
If your router doesn’t have enough Ethernet ports for all your devices, a network switch expands your wired network. A switch connects to one of the router’s ports, then provides additional ports (commonly 5, 8, 16, or more) for other devices.
Switches are smarter than the old network hubs they replaced. A hub blindly sends incoming data to every connected device, splitting bandwidth equally and slowing things down as more devices come online. A switch reads the destination address on each data packet and sends it only to the correct port, so your devices get the full speed of the connection without competing for bandwidth. Hubs are essentially obsolete at this point.
Unmanaged switches work out of the box with no configuration. Managed switches let you control traffic priority and monitor the network, but that’s typically overkill for home use.
A Network Interface on Your Device
Your computer or device needs an Ethernet port to accept the cable. Most desktop computers and many business-class laptops have a built-in RJ45 port. Many modern thin laptops, however, have dropped the Ethernet port entirely to save space.
If your device lacks a port, a USB-C to Ethernet adapter solves the problem. Apple recommends a USB-C to Ethernet adapter for Macs without a built-in port, and adapters supporting 2.5 Gbps are widely available for around $15 to $30. For desktop computers that need faster speeds than their motherboard provides, you can install a PCIe network card directly into an open slot inside the case. These cards are available in 2.5 Gbps, 5 Gbps, and 10 Gbps versions.
Structured Wiring Hardware
If you’re running Ethernet cables through walls for a more permanent installation, you’ll need a few additional components beyond just cables and a switch.
Keystone jacks are the small modular inserts that terminate the cable end inside the wall. They snap into a wall plate (also called a face plate), giving you a clean Ethernet outlet in each room, similar to a phone jack. On the other end of those cable runs, typically in a closet or utility area, the cables terminate at a patch panel. A patch panel organizes all your cable runs in one place, and you use short patch cables to connect each port on the panel to your router or switch.
For larger setups, a small network rack or cabinet keeps the patch panel, switch, and router organized and mounted neatly. Cable management panels and zip ties help keep everything tidy behind the rack.
Tools for Making Your Own Cables
Pre-made Ethernet cables work fine for connecting devices to a switch or router. But if you’re running cable through walls or need custom lengths, you’ll need termination tools. A typical kit includes an RJ45 crimping tool, a wire stripper, RJ45 connectors (matched to your cable category), connector boots or covers, and a network cable tester. The crimper attaches the connector to the stripped cable wires, and the tester confirms all eight wires are correctly connected before you close up the wall. A punch-down tool is also necessary if you’re terminating cables into keystone jacks or patch panels, since those use a different connection method than crimped connectors.
Alternatives When You Can’t Run Cable
Sometimes running Ethernet cable through walls isn’t practical. Two types of hardware can deliver a wired connection using infrastructure that already exists in your home.
Powerline Adapters
Powerline adapters send network data over your home’s existing electrical wiring. You plug one adapter into a wall outlet near your router and connect it with an Ethernet cable. Then you plug a second adapter into any other outlet in your home and connect your device to it. The two adapters pair with each other, usually by pressing a button on each unit. Higher-end kits advertise physical layer speeds up to 2 Gbps and include passthrough power sockets so you don’t lose the outlet. Real-world speeds will be lower than advertised, depending on the age and quality of your electrical wiring, but powerline adapters reliably outperform Wi-Fi in many older homes. You need a minimum of two adapters to create a connection.
MoCA Adapters
MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) adapters use the coaxial cable lines already installed in many homes for cable TV. A typical MoCA adapter kit includes the adapter itself, Ethernet and coaxial cables, a coax splitter, and a power adapter. You connect one adapter to your router and a coax outlet, then place a second adapter at the remote location. MoCA 2.5 adapters can deliver speeds up to 2.5 Gbps, and because coax cable handles high frequencies well, performance tends to be more consistent than powerline. If your home already has coax outlets in multiple rooms, MoCA is one of the most reliable alternatives to running new Ethernet cable.
Power over Ethernet Hardware
If you’re installing devices like security cameras, wireless access points, or VoIP phones, Power over Ethernet (PoE) lets a single Ethernet cable deliver both data and electrical power. This eliminates the need for a separate power outlet at each device location.
You have two hardware options. A PoE switch has power delivery built into its ports and can power multiple devices at once, making it ideal if you have several PoE devices. A PoE injector is a small inline device that adds power to a single Ethernet cable run, useful when you only need to power one or two devices and don’t want to replace your existing switch. The injector sits between your regular switch and the device, with one Ethernet port on each side.