The most fundamental safety guideline for ladder use is maintaining three points of contact at all times: two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand. But safe ladder use goes well beyond how you climb. In 2020 alone, 161 workers died and over 22,700 were injured in ladder-related incidents in the U.S. About 40% of those injuries happened because the ladder slid out at its base from an incorrect setup angle. Most ladder accidents are preventable with the right setup, the right ladder, and a quick inspection before you step on the first rung.
Choose the Right Ladder for the Job
Every ladder sold in the U.S. carries a duty rating that tells you the maximum weight it can support, including your body weight plus anything you’re carrying (tools, materials, paint cans). The five standard ratings are:
- Type III (Light Duty): 200 pounds, suitable for basic household tasks
- Type II (Medium Duty): 225 pounds, for commercial use
- Type I (Heavy Duty): 250 pounds, for industrial work
- Type IA (Extra Heavy Duty): 300 pounds, for professional use
- Type IAA (Special Duty): 375 pounds, for professional use with heavy loads
If you weigh 190 pounds and carry a 20-pound toolbox, you need a ladder rated for at least 210 pounds, which rules out a Type III. Always add the weight of everything going up the ladder with you, not just your body weight. Picking a ladder with too low a rating is one of the top causes of ladder injuries.
Inspect Before Every Use
OSHA requires that ladders be inspected before first use in each work shift. Any ladder with structural defects should be tagged “Dangerous: Do Not Use” and taken out of service immediately. Even at home, a two-minute walkaround can catch problems that lead to falls.
Here’s what to check:
- Rungs and steps: Should be tight, secure, and free of grease, mud, or wet paint. Wiggle them to check for looseness.
- Side rails: Look for cracks, bends, or dents. On fiberglass ladders, check for warping from heat or chemical exposure. On wooden ladders, look for splintering or rot.
- Feet and base: The slip-resistant pads on the bottom of the rails should be intact, not worn smooth.
- Hardware: All bolts, screws, rivets, and fittings should be snug. On a stepladder, confirm that the spreader bars lock fully open.
- Accessories: Leg levelers, paint shelves, and other attachments should be secure and in working order.
On a stepladder specifically, both front legs should be the same length and both rear legs should match. If any of these checks fail, don’t use the ladder.
Set Up at the Correct Angle
For extension ladders leaned against a wall, the base should sit one-quarter of the ladder’s working length away from the wall. So if the ladder reaches 16 feet up the wall, the base should be 4 feet out from it. This is sometimes called the 4-to-1 rule, and getting it wrong is the single biggest cause of ladder injuries. Too steep and the ladder tips backward. Too shallow and the base kicks out.
A quick way to check: stand at the base of the ladder with your toes touching the feet. Extend your arms straight forward. Your palms should just reach the rung in front of you. If you have to lean or stretch, the angle is off.
When using an extension ladder to access a roof or upper level, the side rails need to extend at least 3 feet above the landing surface. This gives you something to hold as you step off and on.
Place the Ladder on Stable Ground
Ladders must sit on a stable, level surface. Never place a ladder on top of boxes, barrels, scaffolding, or any other object to gain extra height. This applies to every type of ladder: stepladders, extension ladders, step stools, trestle ladders, and combination ladders.
Stepladders, platform ladders, and trestle ladders all require level ground under all four rails. If the ground isn’t level and you can’t find a flat spot nearby, a stepladder is the wrong tool. Extension ladders and single ladders have a bit more flexibility because ladder levelers (accessories that attach to the base) can compensate for uneven terrain and give both rails equal support. But these are purpose-built tools, not improvised shims.
On smooth surfaces like tile or polished concrete, confirm the ladder’s feet have slip-resistant material. Metal rungs on portable ladders should also be textured, whether corrugated, dimpled, or coated with a grip material.
Climb and Work Safely
Three-point contact is the core climbing rule. Always keep two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand, in contact with the ladder. That means you should never carry tools or materials in your hands while climbing. Use a tool belt, a bucket hoist, or have someone hand items to you once you’re in position.
Other climbing guidelines that prevent the most common injuries:
- Face the ladder. Always climb and descend facing the rungs, never with your back to them.
- Don’t overreach. Keep your belt buckle (your center of gravity) between the side rails at all times. If you can’t reach something comfortably, climb down and reposition the ladder.
- Stay off the top. The top cap and the top step of a stepladder are not steps. Standing on them puts your center of gravity dangerously high with nothing to hold onto.
- Skip the back braces. The cross-bracing on the rear section of a stepladder is not designed for climbing unless the ladder is specifically built with steps on both sides.
- Don’t apply excessive force. Pushing, pulling, or prying while on a ladder shifts your weight unpredictably. If a task requires significant force, you likely need scaffolding or a different approach.
Secure the Ladder Against Movement
An unsecured ladder on an unstable surface is a fall waiting to happen. If you can’t place the ladder on level ground, or if you’re working at significant height, secure the ladder to prevent it from sliding or tipping. Tie the top of an extension ladder to the structure it’s leaning against, or have a second person hold the base steady. On a worksite, OSHA requires that ladders on unstable surfaces be secured or stabilized against accidental displacement.
Keep the area around the base clear. Tools, cords, debris, and foot traffic near the base of a ladder all create opportunities for someone to bump it or for you to trip while stepping off. If you’re working near a doorway, lock or barricade the door so it can’t swing into the ladder.
Avoid Electrical Hazards
Metal and wet wooden ladders conduct electricity. If you’re working anywhere near power lines or electrical equipment, use a fiberglass ladder. Even fiberglass can become conductive when wet or dirty, so keep it clean and dry. Before setting up any ladder outdoors, look up. Identify overhead power lines and give them wide clearance. Contact with an energized line is almost always fatal, and it doesn’t require direct touch. Electricity can arc through the air at close distances.