A ground cover is any low-growing plant that spreads horizontally to form a dense mat of foliage over the soil. These plants typically stay under a foot tall and expand through runners, underground stems, or creeping root systems. They’re used in landscaping to fill bare areas, control erosion, suppress weeds, and replace traditional grass lawns in spots where mowing is impractical or unnecessary.
How Ground Covers Work
Ground covers succeed by doing one thing very well: covering every inch of exposed soil. As they spread, their foliage blocks sunlight from reaching the ground, which prevents most weed seeds from germinating. Their root systems bind soil particles together, reduce water runoff, and improve the soil’s ability to hold moisture. On slopes, this root network is especially valuable. Fine roots weave through tiny soil pores, compacting loose surface material that would otherwise wash away during rain or blow off in wind.
This makes ground covers function like a living mulch. They regulate soil temperature, keep moisture from evaporating as quickly, and protect the surface from erosion, all while looking far more attractive than bare dirt or wood chips.
Ground Covers as Lawn Alternatives
One of the biggest reasons people search for ground covers is to replace some or all of their grass lawn. Traditional turf demands regular mowing, watering, fertilizing, and pesticide treatments. Ground covers matched to your site’s natural conditions cut most of that work. According to the University of Delaware Cooperative Extension, well-chosen ground covers need less fertilizer, fewer pesticides, and little to no mowing compared to turf grass. Once established (typically after the first year), many ground covers survive on natural rainfall alone except during severe drought. A single application of slow-release fertilizer once or twice a year is enough to keep most varieties thriving.
The environmental payoff is real, too. Less fertilizer and fewer pesticides mean less chemical runoff into local waterways. Eliminating regular mowing removes a surprisingly significant source of air pollution. Gas-powered lawn mowers produce emissions comparable to driving a car for hours, so shrinking your mowed area has measurable benefits.
Common Types for Sunny Areas
If you have a spot that gets six or more hours of direct sunlight, you have plenty of options. Creeping thyme is one of the most popular choices: it stays low, smells wonderful when stepped on, and produces tiny flowers. Stonecrop (a type of sedum) thrives in full sun and handles dry, poor soil that would kill most plants. Moss phlox forms a carpet of pink, white, or purple blooms in spring and does best in well-drained sunny spots. Candytuft grows 6 to 12 inches tall and produces white spring flowers, though blooming decreases in shadier conditions.
For larger areas, creeping juniper is a tough, woody option that stays flat and handles heat, drought, and poor soil. Daylilies and hardy geraniums work well in partial to full sun and add seasonal color. Fragrant sumac (the ‘Gro-Low’ variety) is a low-growing shrub that tolerates a wide range of soil conditions and prefers dry sites, making it useful on sunny banks where nothing else wants to grow.
Options for Shade
Shaded areas under trees or along north-facing walls are where ground covers really outperform grass, since most turf grasses struggle without direct sun. Bugleweed and vinca (periwinkle) are classic shade ground covers that also perform well in sunny sites, giving you flexibility if light conditions vary across your yard. Both spread readily and form thick mats that crowd out weeds. Barren strawberry tolerates a range from partial shade to full sun and produces small yellow flowers. Leadwort works in partial shade through full sun and is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8, producing vivid blue flowers in late summer.
Varieties That Handle Foot Traffic
Not all ground covers can tolerate being walked on, but several are tough enough for paths, stepping stone gaps, or play areas. For spots that see moderate traffic (once a day or so), white star creeper is an excellent choice. It produces delicate small flowers, bounces back quickly after being stepped on, and deer tend to leave it alone.
For heavy-traffic areas that see daily use, green carpet rupturewort is considered one of the toughest ground covers available. Hardy in zones 5 through 9, it can withstand repeated foot traffic without yellowing or thinning out. One grower has described it as a “tractor-trailer plant” because even vehicle tires rolling over it fail to cause lasting damage. Creeping thyme also handles light foot traffic and releases a pleasant scent when crushed underfoot, making it a popular choice between pavers and along walkways.
Invasive Species to Avoid
Some of the most commonly sold ground covers are now classified as invasive in parts of North America. English ivy is the most notorious example. It escapes gardens, invades forests, and smothers native trees by climbing trunks and blocking sunlight. Japanese honeysuckle spreads aggressively through woodlands, outcompeting native plants. Chocolate vine, Chinese and Japanese wisteria, and sweet autumn clematis are also invasive ground-level or climbing plants that strangle and smother native shrubs and trees once they escape cultivation.
Before buying any ground cover, check your state’s invasive species list. A plant that behaves well in one region can be a serious ecological problem in another. Native alternatives almost always exist for every niche these invasive species fill, and they support local pollinators and wildlife in ways non-native plants cannot.
Planting and Establishment
Ground covers are sold as plugs (small individual plants), flats, or seed. Plugs and flats cost more upfront but establish faster and give you a filled-in look within one to two growing seasons. A flat of 72 plugs typically runs around $180 to $200, depending on the species. Seed is far cheaper per square foot but takes longer to fill in and requires more attention to watering and weed control during establishment.
Spacing depends on how quickly you want coverage. Closer spacing (6 to 8 inches apart) fills in within a single season for aggressive spreaders. Wider spacing (12 to 18 inches) saves money but may take two or three years to create a seamless mat. During that first year, keep the area watered consistently and pull weeds that pop up between plants. Once the ground cover closes in and shades the soil, weed pressure drops dramatically and your maintenance drops to almost nothing.