The Peace Lily, botanically known as Spathiphyllum, is a popular houseplant known for its ease of care and striking white flowers. This tropical perennial is a member of the Araceae family, native to the rainforest floors of Central and South America. The plant is recognizable by its glossy, dark green, lance-shaped leaves and its distinctive blooms, which are modified leaves called spathes surrounding a central flower spike (the spadix). While the traditional variety features a pure white spathe, a vibrant pink variation has appeared in the houseplant market, raising questions about its origin and how to maintain its unusual color.
The Unique Nature of the Pink Peace Lily
The appearance of a pink Peace Lily often stems from one of two possibilities, neither of which involves a common, naturally occurring cultivar. The most frequent reason for vivid pink coloration is artificial enhancement through a process similar to dyeing. Commercial growers use a technique where pink dye is absorbed through the plant’s vascular system, causing the newly emerging spathes to display the color temporarily.
The spathes of these treated plants will eventually revert to their natural white or creamy white color as they age and the plant grows out the initial dye treatment. A second source of confusion is the close resemblance to the Anthurium plant, sometimes called the Flamingo Flower. Anthurium is a related genus that naturally produces spade-shaped spathes in shades of red and pink, leading to frequent misidentification.
The natural color of a Spathiphyllum spathe begins as a pale green, transitioning to white or ivory as it matures. While Spathiphyllum hybrids have been developed for various traits, a stable, naturally deep pink-flowering cultivar is not a standard commercial variety.
Optimal Growing Conditions and Maintenance
Caring for a Peace Lily focuses on replicating the warm, humid conditions of its native tropical environment. The plant thrives in bright, indirect light, such as that provided by an east- or north-facing window, which encourages robust blooming. Placing the plant in direct, intense sunlight can scorch the glossy, dark green leaves.
The Peace Lily is particularly expressive about its watering needs, wilting dramatically when thirsty. It is best to keep the potting medium consistently moist but never waterlogged, allowing only the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings. Using room-temperature, filtered, or distilled water is recommended, as mineral salts and chlorine found in tap water can accumulate and contribute to brown leaf tips.
The ideal temperature range for a Spathiphyllum is between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be protected from cold drafts or temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, which can cause severe damage. Boosting the ambient humidity is beneficial, achievable by misting the foliage regularly or placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. Fertilization is generally light, requiring a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer diluted to half-strength, applied seasonally during spring and summer.
Toxicity and Common Plant Issues
All parts of the Spathiphyllum plant contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which serve as a natural defense mechanism against herbivores. When the plant tissue is chewed or ingested, these needle-like crystals penetrate the soft tissues of the mouth and throat. This causes an immediate, intense burning sensation, oral irritation, and swelling of the lips, tongue, and throat.
While the reaction can be severe and distressing, the intense discomfort usually causes a person or pet to stop eating the plant immediately, preventing the ingestion of a harmful quantity. Peace Lilies are generally considered mildly toxic, not deadly, but any known ingestion warrants wiping out the mouth and providing a cool drink or soft food to soothe the irritation.
Beyond toxicity concerns, Peace Lily owners often troubleshoot two common issues: brown leaf tips and a failure to produce blooms. Brown tips frequently result from low humidity or a buildup of mineral salts from tap water or fertilizer residue. This can be remedied by increasing misting and flushing the soil periodically. If a mature plant fails to bloom, it is most often an indication of insufficient light, as the plant needs adequate indirect brightness to develop its spathes.