A reciprocating saw is a handheld power saw with a blade that moves rapidly back and forth (reciprocates) to cut through wood, metal, plastic, and other materials. It’s one of the most versatile power tools you can own, built for rough, fast cuts rather than precision work. If you’ve heard the name “Sawzall,” that’s Milwaukee’s brand name for their version, but the tool category is broadly called a reciprocating saw or “recip saw.”
How the Cutting Action Works
Inside the housing, an electric motor spins a gear or cam. A mechanism called a scotch yoke converts that rotary motion into linear motion, pushing the blade forward and pulling it back in a straight line. The blade typically moves between 3/4 inch and 1-1/4 inches per stroke, depending on the model, at speeds ranging from around 2,000 to 3,200 strokes per minute. Variable-speed triggers let you dial that range up or down to match the material you’re cutting.
Many models also offer an orbital action setting. Instead of moving the blade purely back and forth, orbital action swings it in a slight elliptical pattern. This more aggressive motion clears material faster on each pass and reduces blade friction. Orbital action is most useful when cutting wood or doing demolition where speed matters more than a clean edge. For metal or anything requiring a smoother cut, you’d switch orbital action off and use the standard straight stroke.
Parts of a Reciprocating Saw
The tool is simple by design, which is part of its appeal. At the front, a blade clamp holds the blade in place. Most modern saws use a tool-less blade lock, so you can swap blades with one hand by twisting or pressing a lever. Blades can be installed facing up, down, or even backward, depending on what angle you need to reach.
Surrounding the blade at the front is the adjustable shoe, a movable metal plate that presses against whatever you’re cutting. The shoe serves as a pivot point that steadies the saw and keeps it from jerking during a cut. You can slide the shoe forward or backward to control how deep the blade penetrates. Pushing it forward limits depth (useful when you don’t want to cut into pipes or wires behind a wall), while pulling it back exposes more blade for deeper cuts. Adjusting the shoe position also lets you use different sections of the blade over time, which extends blade life.
The rear of the tool has a pistol-grip trigger with variable speed control. Corded models plug into a standard outlet and typically draw 10 to 12 amps. Cordless models run on 18V or 20V battery packs for most general-purpose work, though professional-grade saws increasingly use higher-voltage platforms (36V to 54V) that rival corded power. DeWalt’s FlexVolt system, for example, automatically adjusts between 18V and 54V from a single battery pack.
What It’s Best At
The reciprocating saw earned its reputation on demolition sites. It’s the tool you grab when you need to tear something apart rather than build something precise. Its long, exposed blade can reach into tight spaces and cut at awkward angles where circular saws and jigsaws simply won’t fit.
- Demolition: Cutting through walls, removing old framing, slicing through wood with embedded nails (the blade handles both materials at once).
- Plumbing and electrical work: Cutting pipes, conduit, and brackets in cramped spaces behind walls or under floors.
- Window and door installation: Trimming framing members or cutting new openings in existing structures.
- Outdoor work: Pruning tree limbs, cutting roots, breaking down pallets or scrap lumber.
- Metal cutting: Slicing through steel pipe, angle iron, bolts, or sheet metal with the right blade.
The common thread is rough, fast cuts in situations where a clean edge isn’t the priority. If you need a straight, precise line in a sheet of plywood, reach for a circular saw or table saw instead. The recip saw is for when something needs to come apart or get cut to fit in a hurry.
Choosing the Right Blade
The blade is what makes a reciprocating saw so versatile. Swapping blades takes seconds, and different blades handle completely different materials. The key spec to look at is teeth per inch (TPI).
Lower TPI blades (around 5 to 10) have larger teeth spaced farther apart, which cuts aggressively through wood and removes material quickly. These are your demolition and framing blades. Higher TPI blades (18 to 24) have finer teeth packed closer together, designed for metal. A blade with 18 TPI works well for cutting steel tubing with walls around 4mm thick, while 24 TPI handles thinner sheet metal (around 1/8 inch) and produces a smoother finish with less burring.
The general rule: thicker the material, lower the TPI. For aluminum, you’d also go with a lower TPI to keep the larger gaps between teeth from clogging, and you’d increase the strokes per minute. Specialty blades exist for cutting PVC, fiberglass, and even masonry (using carbide-grit or diamond-grit edges instead of teeth). Blade lengths typically range from 4 to 12 inches, with 6 to 9 inches being the most common for general work.
Safety Basics
Reciprocating saws vibrate aggressively and kick back if the blade catches or binds in a cut. The single most important habit is making sure the blade isn’t touching the material before you pull the trigger. Starting the blade while it’s already pressed against something can cause the saw to jerk violently out of your grip. Press the shoe firmly against the workpiece, keep the blade clear, then start the motor and ease into the cut.
Eye protection is essential since the saw throws debris at close range. Hearing protection matters too, especially during prolonged demolition work. The shoe helps with stability, but you should always grip the saw with both hands when possible. Because the blade is exposed and can cut in any direction, be aware of what’s behind the material you’re cutting: wiring, plumbing, or anything you don’t want to hit. Adjusting the shoe to limit blade depth is a practical way to avoid cutting through things you can’t see.
Corded vs. Cordless
Corded reciprocating saws deliver consistent power and never need a battery swap, making them a reliable choice for heavy, all-day demolition. They’re also less expensive. A corded model drawing 11 amps at 3,200 strokes per minute will outperform most cordless options in sustained cutting.
Cordless models have closed the gap significantly. An 18V or 20V saw handles most tasks a homeowner or general contractor encounters, with speeds reaching 2,700 to 2,800 strokes per minute. The trade-off is battery life: heavy cutting drains batteries fast, so you’ll want at least two batteries in rotation. For professionals cutting thick lumber or metal all day, the higher-voltage cordless platforms (36V to 54V) provide near-corded power with the freedom to work anywhere. If you already own cordless tools from a specific brand, buying a reciprocating saw on the same battery platform is usually the most cost-effective move.