Cica is a skincare ingredient derived from Centella asiatica, a tropical plant native to Southeast Asia that has been used in traditional medicine for centuries. You’ll find it in creams, serums, and moisturizers marketed for sensitive, irritated, or damaged skin. The name “cica” comes from “cicatrix,” the Latin word for scar, reflecting the plant’s long reputation as a wound healer.
Centella asiatica goes by several other names you might recognize: gotu kola, tiger grass, Asiatic pennywort, or brahmi. It’s a low-growing plant with fan-shaped, yellowish-green leaves that spreads horizontally through runners along the ground. The plant thrives across India, Sri Lanka, China, Indonesia, and Malaysia, and it has a long history in both Ayurvedic and Chinese traditional medicine. According to a Chinese legend, a farmer discovered the plant’s healing properties after watching a wounded tiger roll in a meadow of centella, which is how it earned the nickname “tiger grass.”
How Cica Works on Skin
The plant’s skin benefits come from four active compounds that belong to a class of chemicals called triterpenes. These compounds work together to do three things that matter for your skin: reduce inflammation, boost collagen production, and strengthen the skin barrier.
On the inflammation side, cica’s active compounds block a key signaling pathway that triggers your body’s inflammatory response. When this pathway is suppressed, your skin produces fewer of the chemical messengers that cause redness, swelling, and irritation. Studies in both lab settings and animal models show that cica extracts reduce the release of multiple inflammatory signals at once, which is why it can calm a broad range of skin complaints rather than targeting just one type of irritation.
For repair and aging, cica stimulates the skin cells responsible for producing collagen. Both topical application and oral administration of its active compounds have been shown to enhance collagen synthesis by activating the growth-factor pathway that tells fibroblasts (your skin’s structural cells) to get to work. This collagen-boosting effect is what makes cica relevant for wound healing, burn recovery, and anti-aging products alike.
Skin Conditions Cica Targets
Cica is best known for calming eczema and psoriasis flare-ups, healing superficial burns and scratches, and addressing general dryness and irritation. Its combination of anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties makes it a versatile ingredient for reactive skin. Historically, Centella asiatica has been used to treat psoriasis, eczema, wounds, and even lupus-related skin issues.
A 2017 study in mice suggested that cica may help treat eczema by reducing the infiltration of mast cells (immune cells that drive allergic reactions) in skin tissue while lowering levels of multiple inflammatory compounds. For psoriasis and eczema specifically, its hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties work in tandem, calming the flare while helping the skin hold onto moisture.
There’s also evidence for anti-aging benefits. A study of 20 women with chronically sun-damaged skin found that two-thirds of those who used a cream containing vitamin C and one of cica’s active compounds saw improved skin hydration, elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles after six months. That said, the cream contained other active ingredients too, so cica wasn’t working alone.
How to Find It on a Label
Cica appears under several names on ingredient lists. The most common is simply “Centella asiatica extract,” but you might also see its individual active compounds listed separately. These four are the ones to look for:
- Asiaticoside and madecassoside: sugar-attached forms of the active compounds, often used in formulations for wound healing and collagen stimulation
- Asiatic acid and madecassic acid: the pure acid forms, which tend to appear in more concentrated treatments
You may also see “Centella asiatica leaf water,” “gotu kola extract,” or “TECA” (titrated extract of Centella asiatica), which is a standardized blend of the plant’s key compounds. If a product says “cica” on the front label, check the back to see which form and how high it appears on the ingredient list. Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, so a Centella extract buried near the bottom contributes less than one listed in the top third.
Effective Concentrations
Clinical studies testing cica’s moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects on human skin have used extract concentrations of 2.5% and 5%. In a four-week trial with 25 volunteers applying cica-based formulations twice daily, both concentrations improved skin hydration and reduced inflammation. Many commercial products don’t disclose their exact percentage of Centella extract, which makes it difficult to compare them directly to clinical research. Products that list the extract high on their ingredient label, or that specify a percentage, give you a better shot at getting an effective dose.
Safety and Side Effects
Topical cica is well tolerated by most people, including those with sensitive skin. In a prospective study of subjects with sensitive skin using a Centella asiatica product, no serious adverse events were reported. Six participants developed mild acne (new pimples or clogged pores) on the cheeks, jaw, or around the lips, and all cases resolved on their own within a week. One person experienced brief skin tingling that disappeared within two to three minutes.
Allergic contact dermatitis from Centella asiatica is possible but rare. If you have highly reactive skin, patch-testing a new cica product on your inner forearm for a few days before applying it to your face is a reasonable precaution. The ingredient is generally safe to layer with other common actives like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and ceramides, and many cica products are specifically formulated alongside these ingredients to maximize barrier repair.
Who Benefits Most From Cica
Cica is particularly useful if your skin is dry, irritated, or recovering from damage. That includes post-procedure skin (after chemical peels or laser treatments), skin dealing with eczema or rosacea flares, or skin that’s been compromised by overuse of harsh actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids. It’s also a solid choice for anyone looking to strengthen their skin barrier as a preventive measure, since it supports both hydration and the structural integrity of the skin.
For oily or acne-prone skin, cica’s anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties can help with redness and irritation around breakouts. Just watch for heavier cica creams that contain occlusive ingredients, which could contribute to clogged pores. Lighter formulations like serums or gel creams deliver the same active compounds without the added richness.