Mezcal is a Mexican spirit distilled from the roasted hearts of agave plants. Unlike tequila, which can only use one species of agave, mezcal draws from over 40 approved species, each contributing distinct flavors. It’s produced across 10 Mexican states under a protected denomination of origin, with Oaxaca being the most prominent production region. The smoky, complex character that defines mezcal comes directly from its centuries-old cooking method: roasting agave underground over burning wood and hot stones.
How Mezcal Is Made
Mezcal production begins with harvesting mature agave plants and stripping away the leaves to expose the dense, starchy core called a piña (Spanish for “pineapple,” which it resembles). These piñas can weigh anywhere from 20 to over 100 pounds depending on the species, and they hold the sugars that will eventually become alcohol.
The piñas are cooked in underground pits lined with volcanic rocks. Producers build a fire in the pit, typically using oak wood, to heat the stones. The piñas are layered in, then covered with earth and agave fibers. They roast inside this natural oven for several days, during which the heat breaks down complex plant sugars into simpler, caramelized compounds. This step is the single biggest reason mezcal tastes the way it does. The burning wood and heated stone impart smoky, earthy notes that no above-ground oven can replicate.
After roasting, the softened piñas are crushed to extract their juice. In traditional production, this is done with a tahona, a large stone wheel pulled by a horse or donkey. The resulting pulp, fiber, and juice all go into fermentation vessels, usually large wooden vats holding around 2,000 liters. Water is added, and the mixture ferments spontaneously. That means no commercial yeast is introduced. Instead, wild yeast and bacteria from the surrounding environment colonize the liquid naturally, often carried in by fruit flies and wind. This spontaneous fermentation can last days or weeks and contributes much of mezcal’s complexity. The fermented liquid is then distilled, typically twice, in copper or clay pot stills.
The Three Official Categories
Mexican law classifies mezcal into three categories based on production methods: Mezcal, Mezcal Artesanal, and Mezcal Ancestral. These aren’t quality rankings so much as descriptions of how hands-on and traditional the process is.
Mezcal Artesanal, the most common category you’ll encounter, requires pit-roasting the agave for three to five days, crushing it with a tahona or similar manual method, fermenting in wooden vats with spontaneous (wild) yeast, and double-distilling in copper stills. Mezcal Ancestral takes things further: clay pot distillation replaces copper, and the crushing must be done entirely by hand tools or tahona. The base “Mezcal” category allows more modern, industrial equipment at every stage.
All three categories must be 100% agave and bottled between 35% and 55% alcohol by volume. The category will be printed on the label, giving you a quick read on how the spirit was made.
Agave Species and Why They Matter
More than 200 agave species grow in Mexico, and the variety used in a mezcal shapes its flavor as much as grape variety shapes wine. Here are the ones you’re most likely to see on a bottle.
- Espadín is the most widely used species, closely related to the blue Weber agave used for tequila. It’s the easiest to cultivate, matures in about six to eight years, and produces mezcals that tend to be approachable with mild sweetness and moderate smoke. If a bottle doesn’t specify the agave, it’s almost certainly Espadín.
- Tobalá is a wild agave that only reproduces by seed, not by sending out shoots like most species. It grows in rocky, steep terrain that’s difficult to access, which makes it rare and expensive. Tobalá mezcals are often described as more floral and fruity.
- Mexicano grows in arid, hot areas and can be either cultivated or wild-harvested. It’s a versatile species found across several production regions.
- Cuishe belongs to a family of agave with an unusually wide variety of local names and subtypes. It tends to produce herbal, vegetal mezcals.
- Coyote is found primarily in Oaxaca’s valleys and is recognized by its bright yellowish-green color and orange spines. It’s less common but prized for its distinctive character.
Wild agave species like Tobalá take longer to mature and can’t be easily farmed, so mezcals made from them cost more and are produced in smaller batches. The species name on the label is one of the most important things to look for when choosing a bottle.
What Mezcal Tastes Like
The flavor most people associate with mezcal is smoke, but that’s only one layer. The smokiness comes from phenol compounds created when lignin (a structural component of wood) breaks down during the pit-roasting process. Oak wood is the most common fuel, and its combustion produces the same family of flavor compounds found in smoked foods and peated Scotch whisky.
Beyond smoke, mezcal’s flavor profile varies dramatically depending on the agave species and distillation method. Espadín-based mezcals distilled in copper tend to emphasize smoky and woody notes. Mezcals made from Cupreata agave lean toward citrus, earthy, and alcoholic characteristics. Distillation in clay pots adds a distinct muddy or mineral quality that copper stills don’t produce. Mezcals made from the Angustifolia family of agave (which includes Espadín) tend to show more floral aromas.
This range is part of what draws people to mezcal. Two bottles sitting next to each other on a shelf can taste wildly different based on agave species, region, elevation, soil, and the specific producer’s methods. It’s a spirit where terroir genuinely matters.
How Mezcal Differs From Tequila
Tequila is technically a type of mezcal, the way bourbon is a type of whiskey. But legally, the two are governed by separate regulations with different rules.
Tequila can only be made from one species: blue Weber agave. Mezcal draws from over 40. Tequila production is limited to five Mexican states, while mezcal’s denomination of origin covers 10. The cooking method is the most significant practical difference. Tequila producers typically steam their agave in above-ground ovens or autoclaves (industrial pressure cookers), which softens the piñas without adding smoke. Mezcal’s underground pit-roasting over wood and stone is what gives it that characteristic charred, smoky depth that tequila lacks.
Modern tequila also doesn’t have to be 100% agave. Some lower-cost tequilas (labeled “mixto”) can contain up to 49% non-agave sugars. Mezcal, by contrast, must be 100% agave. Both spirits are double-distilled in most cases, but mezcal’s traditional reliance on copper pot stills and clay pots produces a different texture and flavor than the column stills sometimes used in large-scale tequila production.
Reading a Mezcal Label
Mezcal labels pack useful information once you know what to look for. The agave species tells you the base flavor profile. The category (Mezcal, Artesanal, or Ancestral) tells you how it was made. The state of origin narrows down the terroir. Many bottles also name the specific mezcalero, the person who produced it, which is unusual for a distilled spirit and reflects the craft-scale nature of most production.
You’ll also see age designations. Joven (young) means unaged and bottled shortly after distillation, which is the most common style and lets the agave and smoke flavors come through cleanly. Reposado has been rested in wood for two to 12 months. Añejo has aged for over a year. Unlike tequila and bourbon, where barrel aging is often considered a mark of quality, many mezcal enthusiasts prefer joven expressions because aging in wood can mask the agave’s natural character.