Tricot is a type of knit fabric made using a warp knitting process, where yarns loop in a zigzag pattern along the length of the fabric rather than across it. This construction gives tricot its signature smoothness, stretch, and resistance to runs and snags. You’ll find it in swimwear, lingerie, athletic clothing, and even car interiors. The name comes from the French word “tricoter,” meaning to knit.
How Tricot Is Made
Most knit fabrics you encounter, like a basic t-shirt jersey, are weft knits: the yarn loops horizontally, row by row, much like hand knitting. Tricot works differently. It’s a warp knit, meaning each yarn runs vertically down the fabric in columns called “wales,” zigzagging from one column to the next as it goes. Industrial tricot machines use rows of fine-gauge needles to interlock these vertical loops, producing flat fabric up to 130 inches wide.
This vertical zigzag structure is what makes tricot behave so differently from a regular knit. Because the loops interlock in multiple directions, the fabric resists unraveling. If you snag a jersey knit, the damage can “run” like a ladder in a stocking. Tricot holds together. The interlocking pattern also gives the fabric a subtle sheen on one side and a slightly textured feel on the other.
What Tricot Feels Like
Tricot is thin, smooth, and drapey. It conforms to the body without feeling stiff and has a four-way stretch that lets it move freely in every direction. It bounces back to its original shape after being stretched, which is why it works well in form-fitting garments. The fabric wrinkles very little, even after being folded or packed, and it has a slight slippery quality on its smooth face that helps clothing slide on and off easily.
Common Fiber Blends
Tricot is typically made from filament yarns like nylon or polyester, often blended with 10 to 20 percent spandex for added stretch. The most common blend for swimwear is about 80 percent nylon and 20 percent spandex. Lingerie and supportive garments often use a 75/25 nylon-spandex ratio, which provides a firmer hold and prevents the fabric from becoming see-through. Polyester-spandex blends are also used, particularly for activewear and some swimwear lines, and tend to cost slightly less than nylon versions.
Where Tricot Shows Up
Swimwear is one of tricot’s strongest categories. The fabric retains its shape when wet, dries quickly, and resists degradation from chlorine and saltwater. These qualities make it a go-to for swimsuits and bikinis that need to hold up over multiple seasons of pool and beach use.
In athletic wear, tricot appears in leggings, sports bras, and fitted workout tops. It wicks moisture away from the skin, moves with the body during exercise, and maintains its form through repeated stretching and washing. Lingerie relies on tricot for similar reasons: it’s lightweight, supportive, smooth against the skin, and holds its shape over time.
Beyond clothing, tricot has a significant role in automotive interiors. Car headliners (the fabric covering the ceiling inside a vehicle) are frequently made from tricot, sometimes laminated to foam backing. These industrial versions are engineered to be tear-resistant, waterproof, fire-resistant, and resistant to mildew. The same type of tricot construction also appears in upholstered furniture, mattress covers, and decorative textiles where durability matters as much as appearance.
Brushed vs. Shiny Tricot
Standard tricot has a smooth, slightly glossy surface on both sides. This “shiny” tricot is what you’ll typically find in swimwear and lingerie, weighing around 6 ounces per yard. It’s slick to the touch and works well as a sleeve lining in jackets because it lets your arms slide through easily.
Brushed tricot goes through an additional manufacturing step where industrial brushes or sanding rollers scrape one side of the fabric, lifting fine fibers to create a soft, velvety nap. The result is a fabric that’s smooth and slick on the outside but fleecy on the inside. Running jackets, training leggings, and hoodies often use brushed tricot as a lining because it adds warmth without significant bulk. Winter coats sometimes layer a thin brushed tricot as the innermost surface, directly against the skin, for softness even when the main insulation is quilted or synthetic fill.
How Tricot Differs From Jersey Knit
Jersey knit and tricot are both stretchy, comfortable fabrics, but they’re constructed in fundamentally different ways. Jersey is a weft knit: one continuous yarn loops back and forth across the width of the fabric. Tricot is a warp knit: many yarns run simultaneously down the length of the fabric, interlocking as they go. This structural difference has practical consequences.
Jersey is softer and more breathable, which makes it a natural fit for casual t-shirts and everyday clothing. But it’s more prone to runs and curling at the edges when cut, which can make sewing more challenging. Tricot is run-resistant and lies flat, making it easier to work with for garments that need precise construction. Tricot also tends to be thinner, smoother, and more supportive, which is why it dominates in performance and intimate apparel where jersey would feel too casual or too thick.
Washing and Care
Tricot is durable in wear but sensitive to heat. Wash it in cold or lukewarm water, either by machine on a gentle cycle or by hand. Hot water causes the fibers to shrink and lose their stretch, especially in spandex blends. Skip the fabric softener: it leaves residue that interferes with the fabric’s natural elasticity and, in athletic tricot, can reduce its moisture-wicking ability.
Air drying is the safest approach. Lay the garment flat on a clean towel or hang it in a well-ventilated area. Tumble dryers generate enough heat to damage the fibers, leading to shrinkage and a loss of that reliable snap-back stretch. If you need to iron out a crease, use the lowest heat setting your iron offers.