Ylang ylang is a fragrant tropical tree whose flowers produce one of the most widely used essential oils in perfumery, aromatherapy, and skincare. The tree, scientifically known as Cananga odorata, grows throughout Southeast Asia and the Pacific Islands, and its star-shaped yellow flowers are steam-distilled to capture an intensely sweet, floral oil. Madagascar and the Comoros Islands are the world’s largest producers, with the Comoros alone generating nearly $8 million in ylang ylang oil exports in recent years.
The Tree and Its Flowers
Cananga odorata is a fast-growing tropical tree that can reach heights of 40 feet or more. It produces drooping clusters of yellow-green flowers with long, narrow petals that curl as they mature. The flowers are most fragrant at night and are typically harvested early in the morning when their oil content peaks.
There are two main cultivated forms worth knowing about. The one labeled Cananga odorata genuina produces what’s sold as “ylang ylang oil,” the prized version used in fine perfumery. The other, Cananga odorata macrophylla, yields “cananga oil,” a cheaper, less complex product used in soaps and industrial fragrances. Despite sharing a botanical species name, these two oils have notably different chemical profiles and even trigger different allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Product labels don’t always distinguish between them, so the difference matters if you’re buying for a specific purpose.
How the Oil Is Distilled
Ylang ylang oil is unusual in the essential oil world because it’s collected in stages during a single, long distillation. As steam passes through the flowers over 12 to 18 hours, the oil that comes off changes character. Distillers separate the output into distinct grades, each with a different aroma and use.
- Extra grade is collected in the first one to two hours. It captures the lightest, most intensely floral top notes and is the grade fine perfumers reach for. Chanel No. 5 famously features ylang ylang, and it’s the Extra grade that contributes that luminous sweetness.
- Grade I retains much of the signature scent but with slightly more body.
- Grades II and III grow progressively earthier and more resinous. They’re common in scented candles, soaps, and industrial fragrances where a subtler floral note works better.
- Complete grade results from an uninterrupted distillation that captures the full 12-to-18-hour spectrum. It blends floral sweetness with a warm, grounding depth, and aromatherapists generally prefer it because it contains the broadest range of active compounds.
What Gives It That Scent
The distinctive floral smell of ylang ylang comes primarily from a compound called linalool, which can make up as much as 28% of the oil’s fragrant fraction. Linalool is the same molecule responsible for the floral notes in lavender and basil, though in ylang ylang it blends with other aromatic compounds to create something richer and more complex.
Beyond linalool, the oil contains a mix of compounds that shift in proportion depending on the grade. The Extra grade is dominated by lighter, more volatile molecules like benzyl acetate and geranyl acetate, which evaporate quickly and deliver that immediate burst of sweetness. The later grades accumulate heavier molecules, particularly sesquiterpenes like germacrene D and caryophyllene, which account for up to 63% of the oil’s hydrocarbon fraction. These heavier compounds don’t smell as strongly on their own but add depth and longevity to blended fragrances.
Effects on Stress and Blood Pressure
Ylang ylang’s reputation as a calming oil has some clinical backing, though the research typically uses it in blends rather than alone. In one controlled study, participants with elevated blood pressure inhaled a blend of ylang ylang, lavender, marjoram, and neroli for 24 hours. Compared to both a placebo fragrance group and a no-treatment group, the essential oil group showed significant drops in both systolic and diastolic blood pressure during daytime hours. Their salivary cortisol, a direct marker of the body’s stress response, also decreased significantly.
The blood pressure reductions showed up both in home readings and in 24-hour ambulatory monitoring, suggesting a sustained effect rather than a momentary one. Interestingly, nighttime blood pressure didn’t change, which may reflect the fact that the calming effect works through conscious relaxation pathways that are less active during sleep. These findings are promising but come with a caveat: because the blend contained multiple oils, it’s difficult to isolate how much ylang ylang contributed on its own.
Skin and Scalp Uses
In skincare, ylang ylang oil is most often associated with balancing oily skin and supporting scalp health. A 2024 study tested a ylang ylang formulation on rats with seborrheic dermatitis, a condition characterized by excess oil production and flaky skin. After six weeks of application, sebum content dropped dramatically, from about 27 to under 6 units per square centimeter. At the same time, skin hydration more than doubled. The researchers attributed this to the oil’s ability to help restore the skin’s barrier function, essentially normalizing both oil production and moisture retention rather than simply stripping oil away.
This dual action, reducing oiliness while boosting hydration, is part of why ylang ylang appears in products targeting both acne-prone skin and dry, irritated scalps. The oil is potent, though, and is almost always diluted in a carrier oil or incorporated into a formulated product rather than applied directly.
Common Uses Today
Ylang ylang shows up across several industries. In perfumery, it remains a cornerstone ingredient in floral and oriental fragrance families. In aromatherapy, the Complete grade is diffused or blended into massage oils for relaxation. In hair care, it’s a common addition to products marketed for shine and scalp balance, particularly in natural and organic lines.
If you’re buying ylang ylang essential oil, the grade matters more than most people realize. Extra grade costs the most and smells the most intensely floral, but if you’re using it for aromatherapy or skin applications, the Complete grade offers a fuller chemical profile. Grades II and III are the most affordable and work well for home fragrance or DIY products where you want a hint of floral without the price tag. Whatever the grade, pure ylang ylang oil is highly concentrated and should always be diluted before skin contact.