Shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), commonly called stick welding, can be performed in all major welding positions: flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead. It can also be used in specialized pipe positions, including fixed horizontal pipe (5G) and the 45-degree inclined pipe position (6G). This versatility is one of the reasons stick welding remains widely used in structural, pipeline, and field work where repositioning the workpiece isn’t always possible.
The Four Basic Welding Positions
Every welding position gets a number-and-letter code. The number indicates the position (1 through 4), and the letter tells you the joint type: “F” for fillet welds, which join two pieces at an angle, and “G” for groove welds, which fill a gap between edges or workpieces. A 2G weld, for example, is a groove weld in the horizontal position.
1 (Flat): The workpiece sits flat beneath you, and the electrode points downward. This is the easiest position because gravity pulls the molten metal into the joint. You get the best penetration, the smoothest bead appearance, and the fastest travel speeds here. Flat welds are designated 1G (groove) or 1F (fillet).
2 (Horizontal): The weld axis runs horizontally along a vertical surface. Gravity tries to pull the molten pool downward, so the bead can sag if your travel speed is too slow or your amperage too high. Designated 2G or 2F.
3 (Vertical): The weld runs up or down a vertical surface. This is one of the more challenging positions because gravity constantly pulls molten metal away from where you want it. Designated 3G or 3F.
4 (Overhead): You weld on the underside of the joint, with the workpiece above you. Gravity works directly against you, pulling the molten pool downward toward your body. This demands the most puddle control of any plate position. Designated 4G or 4F.
Pipe Welding Positions: 5G and 6G
Pipe work introduces two additional positions beyond the basic four. In the 5G position, you groove-weld a pipe that is fixed horizontally. The pipe doesn’t rotate, so you have to weld around it, transitioning through flat, vertical, and overhead orientations in a single pass. The fillet equivalent, 5F, involves welding a horizontal pipe to a vertical plate.
The 6G position places the pipe at a 45-degree angle, and again the pipe is fixed. This is widely considered the most difficult standard welding position because you encounter every orientation (flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead) at awkward angles as you work around the joint. Passing a 6G certification test typically qualifies a welder for all other positions, which is why many employers and testing programs use it as a benchmark.
How Gravity Changes the Weld Pool
The reason position matters so much comes down to what gravity does to the molten puddle. In flat welding, gravity pushes liquid metal down into the joint, improving penetration and keeping the bead stable. In vertical welding, that same force pulls the pool forward and piles it up in the arc center, creating what researchers describe as a “cushion effect.” This accumulated metal shortens the arc length, reduces penetration depth, and can produce a concave bead shape if you don’t compensate with technique adjustments.
Overhead welding flips the problem entirely. Gravity pulls the molten pool away from the joint, and the reversed force combines with the natural backward flow of the liquid metal, pushing more material toward the tail of the puddle. The result is a weld pool that wants to drip off the workpiece. Welders compensate by using lower amperage, a tighter arc, and faster travel speeds to keep the puddle small enough to hold in place.
Vertical-Up vs. Vertical-Down
Vertical welding splits into two distinct techniques, and choosing the wrong one for the material thickness can ruin a joint.
Vertical-up welding moves the electrode from bottom to top, fighting gravity the entire way. It’s the slowest of all five common welding directions, but that slow travel speed delivers deeper penetration. For anything thicker than sheet metal, vertical-up is generally required. The welder uses a weaving pattern or a whip-and-pause technique to let the puddle freeze in place between movements, building the bead in controlled steps.
Vertical-down welding moves top to bottom, working with gravity. The faster travel speed produces less heat input and shallower penetration, which is exactly what you want on thin sheet metal. The cooler temperatures prevent burn-through on material that can’t absorb much heat. On thicker steel, though, vertical-down doesn’t fuse deeply enough to produce a sound weld.
Choosing the Right Electrode for the Position
Not every stick electrode works in every position, and the classification number printed on the box tells you which ones are suitable. The third digit in the AWS electrode number is the position indicator:
- “1” (e.g., E7018, E6010, E6013): All-position electrodes. These work flat, horizontal, vertical, and overhead.
- “2” (e.g., E7024): Flat and horizontal only.
- “4”: Flat position only.
For vertical-up work specifically, E7018 is considered the top choice. Its low iron powder content produces a puddle that freezes quickly and resists dripping. It also allows a faster weaving pattern compared to other all-position rods. E6010 works too, but it requires a more demanding stacking or whipping technique where you pull the electrode in and out of the puddle. E6010 does handle dirty or rusty surfaces better, so it sees heavy use in pipeline root passes and field repairs.
A common beginner mistake is grabbing an E7024 for vertical welding. That electrode is designed for flat and horizontal positions. Its high iron powder content creates a very fluid puddle that drips uncontrollably when gravity is pulling against you. Always check the third digit before striking an arc in any out-of-position work.
Practical Tips for Out-of-Position Welding
Regardless of the specific position, a few principles hold true whenever you’re welding against gravity. Lower your amperage compared to what you’d use in the flat position. A cooler puddle is a smaller puddle, and a smaller puddle is easier to control. Keep a tight arc length to maintain directional control over the molten metal, since a longer arc lets the pool wander and drip.
Travel speed matters more in out-of-position work than in flat welding. Too slow and the puddle grows beyond what surface tension can hold. Too fast and you get poor fusion and an undercut bead. The right speed lets each section of the bead solidify before you move on, so the freshly deposited metal supports the next increment. In overhead welding, this often means using a series of short, controlled passes rather than trying to fill the joint in one heavy bead.
For pipe positions like 5G and 6G, the real challenge is transitioning smoothly between orientations as you work around the circumference. Most welders break the joint into sections, adjusting their body position, electrode angle, and amperage as they move from the top of the pipe (essentially a flat weld) through the sides (horizontal and vertical) to the bottom (overhead). Practicing each plate position builds the muscle memory needed to handle these transitions without stopping.