Ducklings need a brooder temperature of 90 to 95°F (32 to 35°C) during their first week of life. From there, you lower the temperature by about 5°F each week until they no longer need supplemental heat, which typically happens around three to four weeks of age if they’re in a room that stays around 70°F.
Week-by-Week Temperature Schedule
The schedule is straightforward. Start at the warmest setting and step it down gradually as your ducklings grow and develop their own insulation.
- Week 1: 90–95°F (32–35°C)
- Week 2: 85–90°F (29–32°C)
- Week 3: 80–85°F (27–29°C)
- Week 4 and beyond: No supplemental heat needed in a climate-controlled space around 70°F (21°C)
Ducklings grow fast compared to chicks, and they produce a surprising amount of body heat on their own. Many duck owners find they can turn off the heat source after just two to three weeks, especially if they’re brooding a group of ducklings that huddle together for warmth. A single duckling or a very small group will depend on supplemental heat a bit longer.
How to Tell If the Temperature Is Wrong
A thermometer in the brooder is helpful, but your ducklings’ behavior is the most reliable gauge. Watch how they position themselves relative to the heat source.
If ducklings are huddled directly under the lamp or plate and piling on top of each other, they’re too cold. Raise the temperature or lower the heat source closer to them. Cold, stressed ducklings also tend to be vocal, peeping loudly and constantly.
Overheating is the more dangerous problem. Ducklings that are too hot will pant with open beaks, repeatedly lift their wings away from their bodies, or stand motionless for long stretches. They’ll also move as far from the heat source as possible, pressing against the walls of the brooder. If you see any of these signs, raise the lamp or reduce the heat immediately. Ducklings are more prone to heat stress than chicks because their down traps warmth efficiently, so err on the cooler side of the recommended range if you’re unsure.
Comfortable ducklings spread out evenly across the brooder, move around freely, eat and drink normally, and sleep in loose groups rather than tight piles.
Setting Up the Heat Source
The two main options are heat lamps and radiant brooder plates, and each has trade-offs.
Heat lamps warm a larger area and also provide light, which helps ducklings find their food and water easily. You adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the lamp. The downsides are real, though: heat lamps cost more to run and pose a fire risk if they fall, get bumped, or use the wrong wattage bulb. Secure any heat lamp with a clamp and a backup chain or wire so it can’t drop into the bedding.
Brooder plates (also called radiant heat plates) sit above the ducklings like a low ceiling, mimicking a mother duck. They use less electricity and carry almost no fire risk. The drawback is that they cover a smaller area, so ducklings have to choose between staying warm underneath or walking out to eat and drink. You also need to adjust the plate height frequently as ducklings grow. Poorly made plates can overheat and cause contact burns, so stick with reputable brands.
Whichever heat source you choose, set it up on one side of the brooder rather than in the center. This creates a temperature gradient so ducklings can move closer to or farther from the heat as they need. That gradient is more important than hitting an exact number on the thermometer.
Nighttime Temperature
Keep the heat source running overnight, at least for the first two to three weeks. Ducklings can’t regulate their body temperature well when they’re young, and nighttime is when ambient temperatures drop the most. There’s no need to bump the temperature up at night, but don’t turn the heat off and assume the ducklings will be fine until morning. Once they’ve outgrown supplemental heat during the day (usually around week three or four), they’ll generally be fine overnight too, as long as the room doesn’t dip much below 70°F.
When Ducklings Can Go Outside
Brief outdoor trips can start surprisingly early. In warm spring or summer weather, ducklings as young as 10 to 14 days old can spend short periods outside during the day. In cooler weather, wait until they’re about three weeks old and pick a sunny afternoon. Always bring them back to the brooder when the temperature drops or when they start huddling.
Full-time outdoor living is a different milestone. Ducklings aren’t fully feathered until 7 to 9 weeks of age. Until then, they lack the waterproof, insulating plumage that adult ducks rely on to handle cold, rain, and wind. Once fully feathered, they can live outside permanently with access to shelter from direct sun and heavy rain. Ducks are remarkably cold-hardy as adults, tolerating temperatures well below freezing, but that toughness only kicks in after their adult feathers have come in completely.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Overheating is more common than under-heating, especially with large groups. Five or more ducklings in a small brooder generate significant body heat on their own, and a heat lamp on top of that can push temperatures dangerously high. Check on your setup multiple times during the first day and adjust before walking away.
Another frequent mistake is keeping supplemental heat running too long. Ducklings that stay under a heat lamp for five or six weeks when they no longer need it can become dependent on it and have a harder time adjusting to outdoor temperatures. Follow their behavior: if they’re avoiding the heat source and spending all their time at the cool end of the brooder, they’re telling you they’re ready to move on.
Finally, make sure water is always accessible but not directly under the heat source. Ducklings are messy drinkers, and wet bedding under a heat lamp creates a humid, bacteria-friendly environment. Place water at the cool end of the brooder and change the bedding frequently.