Laying hens need a diet built around 16% to 18% protein and roughly 4% calcium to produce eggs consistently. The simplest way to hit those numbers is a commercial layer feed as the foundation, with a few targeted supplements on the side. But the details matter: the wrong balance, bad timing, or too many treats can quietly tank your egg count.
When to Start Layer Feed
Chicks eat starter feed (high protein, low calcium) for their first several weeks, then transition to a grower feed. Around weeks 16 to 17, switch to a layer-specific feed. The transition should be gradual, mixing the new feed with the old over about a week. Most hens lay their first egg around 18 weeks, and having the right feed in place before that milestone gives their bodies the calcium and energy reserves they need from day one.
What Layer Feed Provides
A quality layer feed is a complete ration, meaning it contains everything a hen needs in the right proportions. For peak production, the protein content should be around 16% to 18%, calcium around 4% to 4.5%, and phosphorus around 0.35% to 0.45%. These numbers shift slightly as hens age. Younger layers (under 32 weeks) benefit from protein closer to 18% or above, while hens older than 55 weeks do fine on 16% protein but actually need slightly more calcium, closer to 4.75%.
Layer feed comes in pellet, crumble, and mash forms. Pellets reduce waste because hens can’t pick through them the way they do with mash. Crumbles are a middle ground and work well for smaller flocks. The nutritional content is the same across forms, so choose based on what your hens eat most consistently.
Calcium: The Most Critical Supplement
An eggshell is almost entirely calcium carbonate, and a hen needs about 4 to 4.5 grams of calcium every day to form strong shells. Layer feed supplies most of this, but offering a separate calcium source lets each hen take what she individually needs. Oyster shell is the most common choice. Crushed limestone works too. You can also save and crush your own eggshells, though they should be baked first to kill any bacteria and dried thoroughly so hens don’t associate them with fresh eggs.
Particle size matters more than most people realize. Larger calcium particles (coarse oyster shell, crushed eggshell) move through the digestive tract more slowly, which means calcium is available to the hen over a longer period. This is especially important because most shell formation happens overnight. Offering coarse-particle calcium in a separate dish, free choice, lets hens self-regulate. Don’t mix it into the feed, since not every bird needs the same amount and over-supplementing can cause kidney problems.
If you’re seeing thin, soft, or rough-textured shells, calcium deficiency is the most likely culprit. But vitamin D deficiency can mimic the same problem. Without enough vitamin D, hens can’t absorb calcium properly, so shells deteriorate even when the diet contains plenty of calcium. Hens that free-range in sunlight typically get enough vitamin D. Hens kept indoors may need a feed formulated with added vitamin D3.
Protein and Egg Production
Protein is the building block of the egg white and the structural material hens use to grow and maintain feathers. When protein drops too low, egg production slows first and feather quality declines next. You may also see feather picking, where hens pluck each other’s feathers to compensate for the deficit.
During molt, when hens shed and regrow their feathers, protein demands spike. Many flock owners switch to a higher-protein feed (sometimes called “all flock” or “flock raiser,” typically around 18% to 20% protein) during this period and offer oyster shell on the side to replace the calcium that the lower-calcium feed lacks. Research has shown that even a 12.4% protein diet can technically support post-molt recovery if amino acids are balanced, but most backyard keepers find that a higher-protein approach gets hens back into production faster and with better feather regrowth.
Water Is Half the Equation
A laying hen drinks about 250 to 300 milliliters of water per day, roughly a cup to a cup and a quarter. An egg is about 75% water, so even mild dehydration cuts production quickly. In hot weather, water intake can double. Keep waterers clean, filled, and in the shade during summer. If your hens suddenly stop laying and you can’t figure out why, check water access first.
Treats: The 10% Rule
Kitchen scraps, mealworms, scratch grains, and garden greens are fine in small amounts, but they should make up no more than about 10% of your flock’s daily intake. The reason is simple: every bite of scratch grain or watermelon is a bite of balanced layer feed that didn’t get eaten. Scratch grains (corn, wheat, oats) are especially easy to overfeed because hens love them, but they’re high in carbohydrates and low in protein and calcium. Too many treats dilute the carefully balanced nutrition in layer feed and can lead to obesity, soft shells, and fewer eggs.
Some treats are genuinely useful. Black soldier fly larvae and mealworms are protein-rich and make a good supplement during molt. Leafy greens like kale and spinach provide vitamins without many calories. Crushed garlic in water is a common folk remedy, though its benefits for egg production are unproven.
Foods That Boost Egg Nutrition
If you want eggs with higher omega-3 fatty acid content, adding ground flaxseed to your hens’ diet works remarkably well. A diet containing about 15% flaxseed can nearly triple the omega-3 content of an egg, from around 173 milligrams to about 468 milligrams per egg. You don’t have to go that high to see a difference: even 3% to 6% flaxseed in the diet produces a measurable increase. The flaxseed should be ground (milled) rather than whole, since hens can’t break down whole seeds efficiently enough to extract the oils.
Free-Choice vs. Scheduled Feeding
Hens with constant access to feed (free-choice feeding) generally produce more eggs and reach a higher peak production rate than hens on restricted rations. For backyard flocks, the easiest approach is keeping a feeder full of layer feed at all times and letting hens eat as much as they want. The exception is heritage meat breeds or broiler-type hens, which can gain too much body fat on unlimited feed, reducing their laying efficiency.
One useful timing trick: offer a calcium-rich snack or top off feeders in the late afternoon. Hens form eggshells overnight, so having calcium and energy available in the hours before roosting supports stronger shells the next morning.
Signs Your Feed Isn’t Right
Your hens will tell you when something is off nutritionally. Thin or soft eggshells point to calcium or vitamin D deficiency. A sudden drop in production with no obvious illness or stress often traces back to low protein, insufficient calories, or dehydration. Pale yolks suggest the diet lacks pigment-rich foods like leafy greens, corn, or marigold petals. Hens that eat their own eggs may be seeking calcium or protein they’re not getting elsewhere.
Bones can also suffer. Hens on a calcium-poor diet pull calcium from their own skeleton to form shells, leading to bones that become soft and fracture easily. This condition progresses silently, so consistent nutrition is easier than trying to fix a deficiency after the damage is done.