Most professional piercers use a flat-back labret stud for initial nostril piercings and a circular barbell (horseshoe shape) for septum piercings. The specific style depends on the location of your piercing, but in nearly all cases, a stud or barbell outperforms a hoop during healing. Here’s what to expect for each type of nose piercing and why the jewelry choice matters.
Nostril Piercings: Flat-Back Studs
The flat-back labret has become the standard for fresh nostril piercings. It’s a short, straight post with a small decorative top (a gem, disc, or ball) on the outside and a flat disc that sits flush against the inside of your nostril. That flat interior means no poking, no catching on tissues, and minimal movement inside the piercing channel. Many versions now use a threadless “push-pin” design: you simply press the decorative top into the post to lock it in place, with no tiny screws to fumble with.
You may also encounter two older stud designs. A nose screw has a corkscrew-shaped curve partway down the post that threads through the piercing and rests against the inner wall of your nostril. An L-bend works similarly but uses a simple 45-degree angle instead of a spiral. Both hold reasonably well once inserted, but piercers increasingly prefer flat-back labrets because they sit more securely, cause less irritation during healing, and are easier to clean.
Why Hoops Aren’t Used for Fresh Piercings
A hoop looks great in a healed nostril, but starting with one is a recipe for problems. Rings rotate freely, and that constant movement drags bacteria into the wound, irritates new tissue, and creates friction that can trigger stubborn bumps around the piercing site. If a hoop snags on clothing or a towel, it pulls with more leverage than a short stud would, sometimes tearing delicate healing skin. Crusting also builds up more easily inside a curved channel, and when the ring shifts, dried fluid tugs at the wound.
A survey by the Association of Professional Piercers found that clients who started with a straight barbell or flat-back stud reported significantly fewer complications than those who began with a hoop. Most piercers recommend waiting until the piercing is fully healed, typically six to nine months, before switching to a ring.
Septum Piercings: Circular Barbells and Captive Rings
Septum piercings use different jewelry because the anatomy is different. The two most common choices for an initial septum piercing are circular barbells (the horseshoe-shaped piece with a ball on each end) and captive bead rings (a full circle held closed by a small bead). Circular barbells are especially popular because you can flip them up inside your nostrils to hide the piercing for work or other situations, which isn’t possible with a captive ring.
Septum jewelry runs thicker than nostril jewelry. While nostrils are typically pierced at 20 gauge (0.8 mm) or 18 gauge (1.0 mm), septum piercings use 16 gauge (1.2 mm) or 14 gauge (1.6 mm). The 16-gauge size is the go-to for a first septum piercing, offering a good balance of comfort and future jewelry options.
Bridge and High Nostril Piercings
A bridge piercing, placed across the skin at the top of the nose between the eyes, uses a straight or slightly curved barbell, usually in 16 or 14 gauge. Both ends sit visible on either side of the bridge, each capped with a small ball or disc. High nostril piercings, placed further up the nose where the tissue is firmer, typically use the same flat-back labret style as a standard nostril piercing, in 20 or 18 gauge. Because high nostrils have less room and thicker cartilage, a flat-back stud is especially important for comfort.
Gauge Sizes at a Glance
- 20 gauge (0.8 mm): The thinnest and most common for standard nostril piercings. Good for delicate features, subtle jewelry, or workplaces with strict dress codes.
- 18 gauge (1.0 mm): Slightly thicker, better suited if you have thicker nostril tissue or plan to wear chunkier jewelry once healed.
- 16 gauge (1.2 mm): The standard for septum piercings. Also used for bridge piercings.
- 14 gauge (1.6 mm): An option for septum piercings if you want bolder jewelry or plan to stretch later.
For the vast majority of people: 20 gauge for nostrils, 16 gauge for septums.
Materials That Are Safe for Healing
The metal matters as much as the shape. The Association of Professional Piercers sets specific material standards for initial piercings, and the top choice among professional piercers worldwide is implant-grade titanium. This is titanium alloyed to a medical specification called ASTM F-136, the same standard used for surgical implants. It’s lightweight, extremely biocompatible, and available in anodized colors without coatings that could chip off.
Other materials that meet APP standards for initial piercings include implant-grade steel (ASTM F-138), solid 14-karat or higher gold (yellow, white, or rose, but never plated or gold-filled), platinum, and niobium. Niobium is a good alternative for anyone who reacts to virtually everything, as it’s completely hypoallergenic and can also be anodized for color.
The APP also requires that all threaded or press-fit jewelry be internally tapped, meaning no exposed threads on the post that could scratch or harbor bacteria inside the piercing. Surfaces must be polished to a mirror finish with no nicks, scratches, or burrs.
Why Nickel Content Matters
Nickel is the most common cause of contact allergies from metal jewelry, and fresh piercings are far more vulnerable than intact skin. Even implant-grade stainless steel contains nickel within its alloy, though high-quality steel releases it at extremely low rates. European safety standards cap nickel release for piercing posts at 0.2 micrograms per square centimeter per week, a level designed to protect the vast majority of people. Some individuals who are already sensitized to nickel can react at levels as low as 0.05 micrograms per square centimeter per week, roughly 1/4 of the legal limit.
If you have any history of reacting to belt buckles, watch backs, or cheap earrings, implant-grade titanium or niobium are your safest bets. Both are essentially nickel-free. Gold is also safe as long as it’s solid 14 karat or higher and confirmed nickel-free. Avoid anything described as “surgical steel” without a specific ASTM or ISO certification, as that term has no regulated meaning and can refer to low-quality alloys with significant nickel release.
Choosing the Right Jewelry for Your Piercing
Your piercer will select the initial jewelry length to accommodate swelling, which is why your first piece may look slightly longer or looser than what you’d wear long-term. Once healing is complete, you’ll typically downsize to a shorter post or switch to the style you actually want, whether that’s a snug hoop, a decorative stud, or a seamless ring. That downsizing appointment, usually four to eight weeks in, is normal and helps prevent the longer jewelry from shifting around and causing irritation once the swelling goes down.
If you’re booking a piercing and want to make sure you get quality jewelry, ask your piercer what brand they carry and whether it meets ASTM F-136 (for titanium) or ASTM F-138 (for steel). Reputable shops will know these standards by heart and will be happy to tell you exactly what’s going into your body.