The Emerald Green Arborvitae is a popular narrow, pyramidal evergreen widely used in residential landscapes. This cultivar is prized for its dense, bright green foliage that maintains its color throughout the year, making it an excellent choice for privacy hedges and screens. Successful establishment depends significantly on selecting the correct time for installation. Understanding the plant’s needs concerning soil temperature and moisture is key to avoiding transplant shock and ensuring long-term health.
Optimal Planting Windows
The most advantageous times to plant Emerald Green Arborvitae are during periods of moderate temperature, specifically early spring and early fall. Planting in early spring, just after the ground has thawed but before the onset of the summer heat, allows the tree to focus its energy on root development before the stress of active top growth begins. This timing provides a long, cool season for the tree to acclimate.
Early fall is often considered the superior planting window, typically six to eight weeks before the ground freezes solid. The soil remains warm enough from the summer to stimulate root growth, while the cooler air temperatures significantly reduce moisture loss through the foliage. This allows the root system to establish substantially before winter dormancy. Avoiding the extreme temperatures of mid-summer and mid-winter is important because heat stress and frozen soil inhibit the plant’s ability to absorb water.
Preparing the Planting Site
Selecting an appropriate location is necessary, as Emerald Green Arborvitae thrive best with ample sunlight. These trees perform optimally in full sun, requiring at least six hours of direct sun exposure daily to encourage dense, healthy growth. While they can tolerate partial shade, too little light can result in sparser foliage and a more open canopy structure.
The chosen location must also feature well-drained soil, as poor drainage can lead to root rot. To prepare the planting hole, it should be dug wide but not deep, aiming for a diameter two to three times the width of the root ball. Crucially, the depth of the hole must be shallower than the root ball so that the root flare—the point where the trunk widens at the base—sits slightly above the surrounding grade. This shallow planting prevents suffocation and root girdling.
Essential Planting Technique
Once the planting site is prepared, attention must be paid to the root ball. If the tree arrives in a container, gently remove it. If it is wrapped in burlap and wire, remove all synthetic materials and cut away natural burlap from the top two-thirds of the root ball. Inspect the roots and use a hand cultivator or knife to gently score the outside or untangle any roots that are tightly circling the perimeter to promote outward growth.
Position the tree in the center of the prepared hole, ensuring the root flare is fully visible above the soil line. Backfill the hole using the original soil removed during digging, breaking up any large clumps as you go. When the hole is about half full, pause to water thoroughly, which helps settle the soil around the roots and eliminates air pockets. Finish backfilling the remaining soil and lightly tamp the surface with your hands, avoiding heavy compaction with your feet.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
Immediately after the tree is settled, a deep, slow watering is necessary to saturate the entire root zone and further settle the backfill material. This initial soaking is important for establishing the critical soil-to-root contact needed for water absorption. Following the planting, the tree requires consistent moisture during its first year of establishment.
Establish a regular watering routine, providing water deeply twice a week for the first few months if there is no significant rainfall. After this initial period, aim to provide about one inch of water per week, especially during dry spells, to keep the soil consistently moist but never saturated. Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or wood chips, around the base of the newly planted tree. This layer should be approximately two to three inches deep and must be kept several inches away from the trunk to form a “donut” shape, preventing moisture buildup that could lead to rot.