Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is a robust evergreen shrub, favored for creating dense, year-round privacy screens and hedges. Characterized by its fast growth rate and large, glossy green leaves, regular pruning is necessary to manage its size. Pruning promotes a thick, compact habit and removes damaged or diseased wood. Understanding the timing of cuts relative to the plant’s growth cycle is fundamental to achieving a healthy, well-shaped hedge.
Understanding Cherry Laurel Growth and Purpose
The vigorous, fast-growing nature of Cherry Laurel dictates the need for consistent management. Under optimal conditions, this shrub can add between 30 and 60 centimeters of new growth annually, quickly leading to an overgrown appearance if left untrimmed. The primary goal of pruning is to encourage dense, lateral branching, redirecting the plant’s energy from vertical extension into horizontal fullness to form an effective screen.
Pruning also controls the overall dimensions of the shrub, preventing it from exceeding the desired height and spread. While it tolerates heavy cutting, the specific method depends on the desired outcome. Formal hedges require shearing for a uniform look. Selective cutting is employed to maintain a more natural appearance and avoid the unsightly browning of the broad leaves that hedge trimmers can cause.
Timing Routine Maintenance and Shaping
The optimal period for routine maintenance and shaping cuts is late spring to early summer, immediately after the plant completes its spring flowering cycle. This window typically falls between late May and the end of June, depending on local climate and the specific variety. Pruning at this time allows the plant to quickly recover and produce a flush of new growth that will mature and harden off before the onset of cold weather.
This timing minimizes the removal of next year’s potential flower buds, which form shortly after the current year’s bloom ends. Trimming in early summer ensures the plant has the entire growing season to establish new shoots that contribute to the hedge’s density. If the hedge is particularly vigorous, a secondary, lighter trim can be performed in mid-summer to maintain tidiness and sharp lines.
It is important to cease all routine pruning activities well before the first expected autumn frost, generally no later than the end of September. Cutting too late encourages tender new growth that lacks the necessary time to harden, making it highly susceptible to damage from winter cold.
Strategies for Severe Reduction and Rejuvenation
For hedges that are significantly overgrown, neglected, or too woody, a more aggressive approach known as severe reduction or rejuvenation is necessary. This heavy pruning involves cutting back into the older, thicker wood of the plant. The timing for this drastic operation is fundamentally different from routine maintenance, as it requires the plant to be dormant.
The best time for severe reduction is during late winter or very early spring, just before the first signs of new growth emerge. This period is often cited as October through February, or specifically March. Performing a radical cut during this dormant phase minimizes the physiological shock to the shrub, as the plant is not actively pushing sap or foliage. This allows the Cherry Laurel to dedicate its energy to recovery as soon as the growing season begins.
A hard reduction involves cutting stems back substantially, sometimes right down to the main trunk, to encourage new shoots from dormant buds low on the plant. This method is highly effective for regenerating a dense base on a hedge that has become thin or leggy. The entire spring and summer growing season is available for the plant to recover and produce a full screen of fresh foliage.
Essential Techniques and Tools
Using sharp, clean tools is paramount for the health of the plant. Sharp tools ensure a smooth cut, which allows the wound to heal quickly and reduces the risk of disease entry.
Tools for Pruning
Bypass secateurs are the preferred hand tool for selective cuts, as their scissor-like action prevents crushing the plant tissue. For formal hedges, hedge shears are used to maintain a precise, uniform surface. For larger branches, loppers or a pruning saw may be required.
Cutting Technique
When making any cut, particularly when shortening a branch, the cut should be made just above a leaf or a leaf node. This technique directs the plant’s growth to the desired point and prevents the formation of unsightly, dead stubs that can decay and invite pests. For larger branches, the resulting cut should be angled slightly to help water run off, further preventing rot.