Mohair comes from the Angora goat, a breed that originated in the Ankara province of Turkey. Despite the similar name, it has nothing to do with Angora rabbits, which produce a completely different fiber called Angora wool. Today, roughly 4,570 tons of mohair are produced worldwide each year, with South Africa supplying more than half of it.
The Angora Goat
Angora goats grow long, lustrous hair that falls in either tight ringlets or flat, wavy locks. The ringlet type produces the finest mohair, while the flat lock variety is bulkier and coarser. Their hair grows continuously, reaching a staple length of 12 to 15 centimeters between shearings.
What makes mohair distinct from sheep’s wool is its surface structure. Both fibers have tiny overlapping scales, but mohair’s scales are much thinner and smoother. This gives it a silky feel and a natural sheen that wool lacks. It also means mohair doesn’t felt the way wool does, so it holds its shape better in finished garments. Chemically, the two fibers are similar, but mohair is stronger, more elastic, and absorbs dye exceptionally well, which is why mohair textiles often have vivid, rich colors.
The fiber gets finer or coarser depending on the animal’s age. A kid goat’s first shearing produces mohair as fine as 23 microns, soft enough for next-to-skin wear. By the time an Angora goat is fully mature, its fiber diameter can reach 38 microns, better suited for outerwear, upholstery, and rugs.
How Mohair Is Harvested
Angora goats are sheared much like sheep, and the frequency depends on the region. In South Africa, Texas, and Australia, goats are typically sheared twice a year, each clipping yielding about 2.5 kilograms of hair. That adds up to roughly 5 kilograms of greasy mohair per goat annually. In Turkey, Lesotho, Argentina, and parts of the American Southwest, once-a-year shearing is still standard. For specialty markets that prize extra-long fibers, some producers wait as long as three years between shearings.
Shearing timing matters because it affects fiber quality. Hair harvested after a winter growing period tends to be slightly different in texture and weight than hair grown through summer. Producers plan their shearing schedules around climate and market demand to get the best combination of length, fineness, and yield.
Where Mohair Is Produced Today
Until 1849, Turkey was the only country in the world with Angora goats. After that monopoly ended, the breed spread to South Africa, the United States, and eventually to South America and Australasia. The global production map has shifted dramatically since then.
South Africa now dominates, producing around 54% of the world’s mohair, most of it from farms in the arid Karoo region. Lesotho, its small landlocked neighbor, accounts for about 16%. Turkey, the breed’s homeland, contributes roughly 10%. Argentina supplies 8%, the United States about 5% (concentrated in Texas), and Australia and New Zealand together add another 3%.
Origins of the Word
The word “mohair” entered English before 1570, borrowed from the Arabic term mukhayyar, which described a type of haircloth. The Arabic root literally means “choice” or “select,” reflecting the fiber’s status as a premium textile material. Mohair is one of the oldest textile fibers still in commercial use.
Animal Welfare and Certification
Because shearing is the primary harvesting method, animal welfare practices on Angora goat farms have drawn attention from both consumers and the textile industry. The Responsible Mohair Standard, managed by the nonprofit Textile Exchange, certifies farms that meet specific criteria across three areas: animal welfare based on the Five Freedoms (freedom from hunger, discomfort, pain, fear, and the ability to express normal behavior), progressive land management that protects soil health and biodiversity, and fair social practices for workers.
If you’re buying mohair products and want to verify sourcing, look for the RMS certification label. It traces the fiber from certified farms through the supply chain to the finished product, providing a level of assurance that the goats were raised and sheared under monitored conditions.