The Peace Lily, or Spathiphyllum, is a highly popular houseplant celebrated for its resilient nature and striking white flower-like spathes. Despite its reputation for being easy to care for, the plant often signals distress through its foliage, specifically with brown and yellow tips. These discolorations are the most common visible symptoms that indicate an imbalance in the plant’s environment or care routine. Understanding the specific cause of these leaf changes is the first step toward restoring the plant to its lush, dark-green health.
Primary Causes: Watering and Mineral Buildup
Inconsistent moisture levels are the most frequent culprits behind leaf tip discoloration in Spathiphyllum. Brown, crispy tips signal underwatering, meaning the leaf tissue has desiccated due to lack of moisture. Conversely, yellowing leaves often point toward overwatering, where saturated soil leads to root hypoxia, suffocating the roots and preventing efficient nutrient absorption.
The plant’s sensitivity to water quality also plays a significant role in tip burn. Municipal water sources contain dissolved mineral salts, chlorine, and fluoride, which accumulate in the soil as water evaporates. This salt buildup draws moisture out of the leaf tissue (reverse osmosis), resulting in the characteristic brown and burnt appearance on the leaf edges and tips. Over-fertilization acts similarly, introducing excess soluble salts that burn the roots and manifest as brown tips.
To minimize chemical burn, allow tap water to sit out for at least 24 hours before use, which allows chlorine to dissipate. Since fluoride and mineral hardness cannot be removed this way, switching to distilled or rainwater offers a more permanent solution for sensitive plants. White crusty deposits on the soil surface or around the pot’s drainage holes confirm mineral salt accumulation.
Secondary Causes: Light and Air Stress
Environmental factors also contribute to leaf stress and tip damage. Peace Lilies thrive in dappled sunlight, making them highly susceptible to light stress indoors. Direct sun exposure causes leaf scorch, appearing as large brown or black patches rather than just tip damage. Positioning the plant in bright, indirect light, such as near a north or east-facing window, prevents this damage.
Low atmospheric humidity is another common cause of brown leaf tips, especially in dry, heated or air-conditioned homes. As a tropical plant, Spathiphyllum prefers humidity levels between 50% and 60%. The leaf tips are the first area to show signs of drying out when the surrounding air lacks sufficient moisture.
Fluctuations in temperature can also stress the plant, leading to brown or yellowing leaves. Peace Lilies prefer a consistent temperature range of 65°F to 80°F. Placing the plant near cold drafts or heating and air conditioning vents can cause leaf damage and discoloration.
Immediate Steps for Recovery
Once the root cause of the discoloration is identified, immediate actions can begin the recovery process. Damaged leaf tips will not revert to green, but pruning improves appearance and prevents decay spread. Using sharp, clean scissors, trim the brown or yellow area following the natural shape of the leaf. Leave a thin margin of damaged tissue to prevent further injury to healthy tissue. Entirely yellow or heavily damaged leaf stalks should be removed completely at the base to redirect energy toward new growth.
If mineral or fertilizer salt buildup is suspected, flushing or leaching the soil is necessary. This involves slowly pouring a large volume of clean, filtered water—about four times the pot’s volume—through the soil to dissolve and wash away excess salts. Ensure the water drains completely from the drainage holes to prevent the roots from sitting in saturated soil.
If light or temperature stress is identified, immediately reposition the plant away from direct sun or strong drafts. For low humidity, place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, ensuring the pot bottom does not touch the water, to increase localized moisture through evaporation. Using a humidifier also provides a more consistent humidity level.
Maintaining a Healthy Peace Lily
Long-term health relies on consistent, appropriate care focused on the plant’s specific needs.
Watering Consistency
Peace Lilies prefer their soil to remain consistently moist, but not waterlogged. A simple check of the top inch of soil before watering is a reliable method. Waiting until the plant exhibits its characteristic dramatic droop is not recommended, as repeated wilting stresses the foliage and contributes to tip browning.
Fertilization
Spathiphyllum are not heavy feeders, and over-fertilization is a major cause of salt burn and brown tips. During the spring and summer growing season, apply a balanced houseplant fertilizer sparingly. This should be done typically once every six to eight weeks, diluted to half or even quarter strength. Skip fertilizing entirely in the fall and winter when the plant’s growth naturally slows.
Potting and Repotting
Proper potting medium and drainage are necessary for preventing root rot associated with overwatering. The pot must have sufficient drainage holes, and a well-draining soil mix that retains some moisture, such as one containing peat moss and perlite, is ideal. Peace Lilies prefer to be slightly root-bound, so repotting is only necessary every two to three years or when the roots begin to densely circle the pot. When repotting, select a container only one to two inches wider than the previous one to avoid excess soil volume that holds too much moisture.