Why Are My Cherry Laurel Leaves Turning Brown?

The Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is a popular, fast-growing evergreen shrub often used for hedges and screening due to its dense, glossy foliage. While generally robust, the sudden appearance of brown leaves is a frequent problem for homeowners, indicating underlying environmental stress or a biological issue. Because the laurel retains its leaves year-round, any damage is highly visible and suggests a disruption in the plant’s ability to manage water, nutrients, or fight off pathogens. Understanding the specific pattern of the browning is the first step toward restoring the plant’s health.

Environmental Stressors Causing Leaf Browning

The most frequent causes of brown leaves on Cherry Laurel are non-biological and relate directly to the plant’s environment or routine care. Water stress is a leading factor, and its symptoms can be confusing because both too little and too much water cause browning. Underwatering leads to desiccation, where leaves lose more moisture than the roots can supply, resulting in brown edges that progress inward. Conversely, excessive watering or poor soil drainage suffocates the roots, preventing nutrient absorption, which causes the foliage to brown and die off, mimicking drought symptoms.

Seasonal weather extremes are another major stressor. Sun and heat scorch typically affects leaves most exposed to intense, afternoon sunlight, particularly after a dry spell. This damage appears as large, irregularly shaped brown patches on the leaf surface, resulting from high temperatures burning the leaf tissue. A similar phenomenon is “winter burn,” which occurs in late winter or early spring when the ground is frozen. The roots cannot take up water, but the sun and wind cause moisture loss from the leaves, leading to browning of the leaf tips and margins due to desiccation.

Soil conditions also play a role in the plant’s overall health. Cherry Laurels prefer moist, well-drained soil; compacted or heavy clay soils impede drainage, leading to root suffocation. Furthermore, highly alkaline soil disrupts the uptake of micronutrients, leading to chlorosis (yellowing) that can eventually turn brown if the deficiency is severe. These environmental issues weaken the plant, making it more vulnerable to secondary problems like disease or pests.

Identifying Common Diseases and Pests

Biological agents like fungi and bacteria can also cause browning, often with distinct visual characteristics. One common issue is Shot Hole Disease, caused by the fungus Wilsonomyces carpophilus or the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae. This disease initially appears as small red or purple spots, which then develop a dark brown or black inner circle. The plant isolates the infection, causing the dead tissue to dry out and fall away, leaving behind a characteristic hole that looks like a shotgun blast.

Root rot, often caused by water molds like Phytophthora, represents an advanced stage of severe overwatering or poor drainage. This soil-borne pathogen attacks damaged roots, inhibiting the plant’s ability to transport water and nutrients to the canopy. The resulting leaf browning and dieback can be sudden, often starting with wilting and yellowing before rapidly turning brown. An inspection of the roots will reveal dark, mushy tissue instead of firm, white roots, confirming this serious issue.

While less likely to cause widespread browning, certain pests can lead to decline resulting in brown foliage. Scale insects, for example, suck sap from the stems and leaves, which can cause leaf yellowing and eventual dieback if populations are high. Other pests, like borers, damage the wood in the lower part of the branches, leading to localized browning and sudden death of the foliage on the affected limb. The presence of pests is often secondary, taking advantage of a shrub already stressed by environmental factors.

Diagnosis and Corrective Action

Diagnosing the cause of browning begins with a simple check of the soil moisture, often called the finger test. Insert a finger about two inches into the soil near the plant’s base. If the soil is dry at this depth, underwatering is likely the issue; consistently soggy soil indicates poor drainage or overwatering. Next, examine the location of the damage: browning confined to the leaf edges or tips often suggests winter burn or desiccation, while browning focused on the leaf surface points toward sun scorch or fungal leaf spot.

If environmental stressors are the root cause, immediate corrective actions involve adjusting the watering regimen and improving growing conditions. For underwatering, provide a deep, thorough watering, especially during dry spells, and apply organic mulch to retain soil moisture. To correct poor drainage, avoid future overwatering and consider loosening the soil or amending the area with organic matter to improve aeration. Any branches that have completely died back should be pruned out to encourage new growth and improve the shrub’s structure.

When symptoms point to Shot Hole Disease, the focus shifts to sanitation and cultural practices to limit pathogen spread. Immediately prune and dispose of any heavily infected leaves and branches to reduce the source of fungal spores. Since the disease is spread by water splash, avoid overhead irrigation and ensure the shrub has sufficient air circulation by thinning out dense growth. For established root rot, the plant is often difficult to save, but ensuring the soil is well-drained is the only long-term prevention.