Why Are My Crape Myrtle Leaves Turning Yellow?

The Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a popular ornamental tree, known for its summer blossoms. When the normally lush green foliage begins to turn yellow, a condition called chlorosis, it is a clear sign that the tree is under stress. This discoloration usually points to a manageable environmental or nutritional issue that can be corrected with targeted care. Understanding the specific pattern and timing of the yellowing helps diagnose the underlying cause and return the tree to its vibrant state.

Stress from Improper Watering and Sunlight

Improper water availability is a primary factor leading to leaf yellowing. Overwatering is damaging because it suffocates the roots, causing them to rot and preventing efficient nutrient absorption. Leaves on an overwatered tree often turn yellow and fall off quickly, sometimes starting on the lower parts of the plant. Conversely, underwatering or drought stress causes leaves to wilt, dry out, and develop a yellow or brown tint, especially during hot summer months.

The tree’s need for light also directly influences its foliage color and overall health. Crape Myrtles require a minimum of six hours of direct sun exposure daily to thrive. When planted in a shady location, the lack of light inhibits chlorophyll production, resulting in pale, yellowing leaves and a noticeable reduction in the number of flowers produced. Yellowing during the active growing season often indicates a problem with either water or light.

Yellowing Caused by Nutrient Imbalances

Deficiencies in the soil can affect leaf color. Iron chlorosis is a frequent nutritional issue, presenting a distinct visual pattern on the leaves. The tissue between the veins turns yellow, but the veins themselves remain dark green, which is known as interveinal yellowing. This discoloration typically appears first on the tree’s newest growth.

The issue is usually not a lack of iron, but rather the nutrient’s availability. Crape Myrtles prefer slightly acidic soil, ideally with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. When the soil pH is alkaline (above 7.0), iron and other micronutrients become chemically locked up in an insoluble form, making them unavailable for root uptake. A general yellowing that affects older, lower leaves more uniformly can indicate a lack of nitrogen, a mobile nutrient the plant moves to new growth, leaving older leaves pale.

Identifying Pests and Diseases That Cause Leaf Yellowing

Biological factors, such as insects and fungi, contribute to chlorosis and premature leaf drop. The Crape Myrtle aphid is a common pest that feeds on sap, causing stress and yellow spots on the leaves. Aphids excrete a sticky, sugary waste called honeydew.

Honeydew serves as a food source for sooty mold, a black fungus that grows across the leaf surface. Although the mold does not directly infect the plant tissue, the black coating blocks sunlight, reducing the leaf’s ability to perform photosynthesis. This results in underlying yellowing and weakened growth. Another common culprit is Cercospora leaf spot, a fungal disease that thrives in warm, moist conditions. This disease causes small spots that turn yellow and lead to premature leaf shedding, often starting from the bottom branches.

Improper drainage that causes saturated soil can lead to root rot, a severe fungal issue. Damaged roots cannot transport water or nutrients, causing the entire tree to display symptoms of overall yellowing and decline, mimicking severe drought stress. Identifying the presence of spots, sticky residue, or root damage helps distinguish these biological problems from simple cultural stress.

Preventing Future Yellowing Through Proper Care

Preventing chlorosis involves managing soil conditions. A soil test is the most accurate way to determine the current pH level and identify nutritional deficiencies. If the soil is too alkaline, sulfur products can be incorporated to gradually lower the pH, making sequestered micronutrients like iron available for absorption.

Adopting a deep, infrequent watering schedule is the best practice for moisture management. This technique encourages the development of deep, resilient roots, unlike light, frequent watering, which can lead to shallow roots and over-saturation. Pruning the tree to improve light penetration and air circulation within the canopy helps reduce the humidity that encourages fungal issues. Applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants in the spring ensures a steady supply of nutrients throughout the growing season.