Why Are My Laurel Leaves Turning Yellow and Brown?

Laurel species, such as Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) and Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis), are popular garden shrubs valued for their dense, evergreen foliage. When leaves turn yellow (chlorosis) or brown (necrosis), it signals that the plant is under stress. This discoloration is a non-specific symptom triggered by many issues, ranging from environmental factors to pest infestations. Understanding the patterns of discoloration is the first step toward accurate diagnosis. The diagnostic process requires systematic observation, as the location and nature of the damage provide distinct clues to the underlying cause.

Environmental Stressors Causing Leaf Discoloration

The most frequent causes of leaf discoloration are abiotic, meaning they are related to non-living environmental factors like water, nutrients, and temperature extremes. Imbalances in soil moisture are a leading culprit, as both too much and too little water disrupt the plant’s physiological processes. Overwatering, often due to poor soil drainage, suffocates the roots by displacing oxygen, leading to root rot, which manifests as an overall yellowing and eventual browning of the entire plant canopy. Conversely, underwatering or drought stress causes the plant to conserve moisture, resulting in the browning and crisping of leaf edges and tips.

Nutrient deficiencies also cause distinct patterns of chlorosis, especially in high-pH or alkaline soils where certain elements become unavailable. Iron deficiency typically appears first on the newest leaves, causing interveinal chlorosis—the area between the veins turns yellow while the veins remain green. In contrast, magnesium deficiency tends to affect older leaves first, causing yellowing along the leaf margins while the center remains green.

Temperature and light stress can also cause physical leaf damage that appears as browning. Winter injury, or desiccation, occurs when the ground is frozen, preventing the roots from absorbing water while the leaves continue to lose moisture to cold, dry winds, resulting in brown edges or large brown patches. Sun scald causes large, irregular brown spots on leaves exposed to excessive sunlight, a particular risk for younger laurels or those recently transplanted.

Identifying Common Laurel Pests and Diseases

If environmental factors are ruled out, discoloration often signals a biotic issue caused by a pest or pathogen. Fungal and bacterial diseases frequently cause characteristic spots and holes in the foliage. Shot Hole Disease, caused by a fungus or bacterium, begins as small, brown or reddish spots. As the plant isolates the infection, the damaged tissue dies and falls out, leaving behind a small, circular hole.

Other fungal issues, like Powdery Mildew, can also lead to discoloration and holes, especially on Cherry Laurel. It causes a white, powdery coating that leads to brown patches and a ragged appearance. Pests that feed on plant sap or roots also induce yellowing and decline. Scale insects attach to stems and leaves, extracting sap and causing overall leaf yellowing and reduced vigor, often leading to sooty mold from their sticky residue (honeydew).

The Vine Weevil is another significant pest, though its damage is often mistaken for a watering issue. Adult weevils feed on leaves, creating distinct, C-shaped notches along the margins, which is only a cosmetic problem. The serious issue is the larvae, which live in the soil and feed on the roots. This compromises the plant’s ability to take up water and nutrients, resulting in wilting and yellowing that mimics drought or root rot.

A Step-by-Step Diagnostic and Treatment Plan

A structured inspection of the plant is the most reliable way to pinpoint the exact cause of discoloration and begin effective treatment. Start by assessing the soil, as water issues are the most frequent problem; check the soil moisture a few inches below the surface to determine if the area is waterlogged or severely dry. Next, observe the pattern of discoloration: interveinal yellowing on new growth suggests iron deficiency, while yellowing on older leaves points toward a magnesium or nitrogen issue, which can be confirmed with a soil test.

If the soil and nutrient balance seem adequate, shift the focus to a detailed leaf inspection. Look closely for the distinct, circular holes characteristic of Shot Hole Disease, or the white appearance of Scale insects on the stems and leaf undersides. If the damage manifests as semi-circular notches along the leaf edge, the adult Vine Weevil is likely present, signaling that larvae may be damaging the roots.

Treatment for abiotic issues centers on correcting growing conditions, such as improving drainage in waterlogged areas by incorporating organic matter or redirecting downspouts. Nutrient deficiencies are addressed by applying specific fertilizers, such as chelated iron products, or by adjusting the soil pH to make nutrients more accessible. For biotic problems, immediate action involves pruning and destroying all visibly affected leaves and branches to reduce pathogen spread. Scale insects can be controlled using a dormant season application of horticultural oil, while Vine Weevil larvae are best controlled with beneficial nematodes applied to the soil during the late summer or early fall. Maintaining proper cultural care, including consistent watering and pruning for good air circulation, is the best long-term prevention against recurring stress and disease.