Peonies are long-lived herbaceous perennials admired for their spectacular spring blooms and lush, deep green foliage. When these robust plants show brown on their leaves, it signals a problem in their immediate environment. Identifying the precise cause requires careful observation, as the discoloration can stem from disease, environmental stress, or the plant’s natural annual cycle. Understanding the visual cues is the first step toward diagnosis and restoring the plant’s health.
Identifying Common Fungal Infections
The most frequent cause of brown foliage is Botrytis blight, caused by the fungus Botrytis paeoniae. This fungus thrives in the cool, wet, and humid conditions often present during spring and early summer. Symptoms typically begin with young shoots wilting and collapsing, often exhibiting a water-soaked lesion near the soil line.
On the leaves, the infection appears as irregular dark brown or black blotches that spread rapidly across the surface, sometimes accompanied by a concentric ring pattern. In humid weather, a fuzzy, gray mold, which is the mass of fungal spores, develops on the infected tissues, including the stems, buds, and leaves. This fungal growth prevents flower buds from developing, causing them to turn black and fail to open (bud blast). Immediate action requires sanitation: all diseased stems and leaves must be promptly pruned and destroyed, not composted, to prevent the pathogen from spreading.
Addressing Water and Heat Stress
When browning is not accompanied by gray mold or water-soaked stem lesions, the cause is likely a non-pathogenic environmental factor related to water management. Drought stress results in the leaves and tips turning a crispy, brittle brown because the plant cannot draw enough moisture to replace what is lost through transpiration. This is especially noticeable in newly planted specimens lacking an extensive root system. While established peonies are drought-tolerant, prolonged dry periods require deep, supplemental watering to prevent this scorched appearance.
Conversely, overwatering or planting in soil with poor drainage can also lead to browning. If the roots remain saturated, they suffocate, leading to decay known as root rot. The rotting roots cannot absorb water and nutrients, causing the foliage to wilt and turn a soft, mushy brown, mimicking a thirsty plant. Another environmental stressor is intense heat and sunlight, which can cause sun scald, particularly in regions with high summer temperatures. This damage appears as bleached or brown spots on the leaf surface, sometimes worsened by heat reflected from nearby hardscaping like rock mulch.
When Seasonal Browning is Expected
Not all browning signals distress; sometimes, it is the plant preparing for its annual dormancy cycle. Herbaceous peonies, the most common type grown in gardens, produce only one set of leaves each year. As the season transitions into early autumn, the foliage naturally begins to senesce.
This natural dieback typically starts with a uniform yellowing across the plant, progressing to a generalized brown. This change is a healthy process, as the plant moves stored energy and nutrients from the leaves down into the underground crown and storage roots. The foliage must be left intact during this period to ensure the roots store enough energy for vigorous growth and blooming the following spring.
Cultural Practices for Long-Term Health
Preventing future problems requires adhering to cultural practices that minimize environmental stress and disease susceptibility. Proper planting depth is important for herbaceous peonies; the crown’s growth buds, or “eyes,” must be positioned no more than 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Planting too deeply can result in a lack of flowers and a decline in plant vigor.
Good air circulation is a preventative measure that keeps the foliage dry, making it less hospitable for fungal spores to germinate. This is achieved by spacing plants at least three feet apart and avoiding dense plantings that might trap moisture. Furthermore, a thorough winter cleanup is the most important cultural practice for controlling Botrytis blight. After the first hard frost causes the foliage to collapse, all brown stems and leaves must be cut down to the ground and removed from the garden area. Disposing of this debris in the trash, rather than composting it, eliminates the fungal structures that would otherwise overwinter and reinfect emerging shoots the next spring.

