Hair that sticks out on the sides usually comes down to one of three things: your natural growth pattern, the shape of your hair strand, or a haircut that isn’t working with your hair’s texture and density. Often it’s a combination. The good news is that each cause has a practical fix, and once you identify what’s driving the problem, you can address it directly.
Growth Patterns and Cowlicks
Every head has at least one whorl, a spiral point where hair radiates outward in a specific direction. Most people notice the one on their crown, but smaller whorls and cowlicks can sit along the sides and temples too. When hair on the side of your head grows at an angle that points outward rather than downward, it resists lying flat no matter how much you brush it.
The direction of your cowlick also determines which side your hair naturally parts on and which direction it wants to fall. A clockwise whorl generally favors a left-side part. If you’ve been forcing your hair in the opposite direction for years, the sides will fight back with lift and bounce. That lift isn’t always a bad thing (some people use it intentionally for volume), but if you want your sides to sit flat, working with your growth direction rather than against it makes a significant difference.
Hair Shape and Thickness
Under a microscope, individual hair strands aren’t all the same shape. Straight hair tends to have a round or nearly round cross-section, which makes it rigid and resistant to bending. This is especially common in East Asian hair, which has the most circular cross-section of any hair type. That rigidity is exactly why straight, thick hair often sticks straight out on the sides instead of draping downward.
Thicker individual strands compound the issue. When you have a high density of coarse, straight hair concentrated at the temples and above the ears, the combined stiffness creates a shelf-like effect. Wavy or curly hair, which has a more oval or elliptical cross-section, is more flexible and tends to bend under its own weight. Ironically, the “sticking out” problem is most stubborn in people whose hair is the straightest.
Haircuts That Reduce Side Bulk
The wrong haircut is one of the most common reasons sides flare out. If your barber or stylist leaves too much weight on the sides without blending it properly, the bulk has nowhere to go but outward. Two techniques handle this well.
A taper gradually shortens hair from the top of the sides down to the neckline. It removes bulk without a dramatic contrast, keeping things clean and professional. A fade takes the same concept further, shaving the lowest sections very close to the skin. Shaving the hair close on the sides takes away bulk and visually slims and lengthens your face. For hair that sticks out aggressively, a mid or low fade is one of the most reliable fixes because it eliminates the densest, most stubborn hair entirely.
If you prefer to keep some length on the sides, ask your stylist to use thinning shears or point-cut into the bulky areas. This removes interior weight so the remaining hair can lie closer to your head. When booking your next cut, specifically mention where your hair flares. A good stylist will adjust their technique to that spot.
Blow-Drying for Flatter Sides
How you dry your hair matters more than most people realize. Letting hair air-dry after a shower means the strands set in whatever direction they naturally spring, which on the sides usually means outward. A blow dryer with a concentrator nozzle gives you control over where the hair lands.
The key technique: always direct the nozzle downward along the hair shaft, pointing from roots toward ends. This seals the outer layer of each strand (the cuticle), which reduces frizz and creates a smoother finish that holds its shape longer. Blasting hot air in random directions lifts those cuticle layers, causing roughness and puffiness that makes side hair look even more unruly.
While drying, use a round brush or flat brush to pull the side hair downward and slightly back toward your head. Hold each section under tension for a few seconds with warm air, then hit it with the cool setting to lock the shape. This essentially trains the hair into a flatter position while the heat is reshaping the temporary bonds in each strand. The results last until your next wash.
Styling Products That Hold Sides Down
For daily control, the right product depends on how stubborn your hair is and how natural you want it to look. Water-based pomade offers a lower hold but leaves a more natural finish, washes out easily, and is healthier for your hair over time since it’s alcohol-free. It works well if your sides only stick out slightly or if you’ve already addressed the bulk with a good haircut.
For thicker, more resistant hair, clay-based products or matte pastes provide stronger hold without the wet, shiny look of traditional pomade. Apply a small amount to slightly damp hair, working it into the sides from root to tip, then blow-dry downward to set it in place. The combination of product and heat is far more effective than either one alone.
Overnight Training
What happens while you sleep can undo an entire day of styling. Tossing and turning on a cotton pillowcase creates friction that pushes hair in random directions, and by morning your sides are back to sticking out. Two simple changes help.
First, switch to a silk or satin pillowcase. The reduced friction lets hair slide rather than catch, so it stays closer to the position you styled it in. Second, consider wearing a compression cap or durag overnight. These hold hair flat against your head for hours, gradually training the strands to lie in that direction. A silk or satin durag also retains moisture and prevents the frizz that makes side hair puff out. Doubling up with a wave cap underneath adds extra compression for particularly stubborn hair.
Down Perms for Persistent Cases
If nothing else works, a down perm is a semi-permanent chemical option. Unlike a traditional perm that adds curl, a down perm relaxes hair so it lies flat against your head. The process breaks and reforms the internal bonds in your hair using a chemical solution, then a neutralizer locks the strands into their new, flatter shape.
Results typically last three to six months, gradually fading as new hair grows in with its original pattern. Down perms are popular in East Asian countries specifically because straight, rigid hair is the most prone to sticking out on the sides. The treatment does involve chemical processing, so it can cause some dryness. Using a moisturizing conditioner regularly afterward helps maintain the health of treated hair.
Matching the Fix to the Cause
If your sides only started sticking out after a recent haircut, the problem is almost certainly too much bulk left on the sides. Go back and ask for thinning or a tighter taper. If your hair has always done this, you’re likely dealing with growth direction, strand thickness, or both. In that case, a layered approach works best: get the right cut to remove excess weight, use a blow dryer and product daily, and protect the style overnight. Most people find that two or three of these strategies together solve the problem completely, even when no single one does the job on its own.