Plant propagation by cutting involves taking a section of a parent plant and encouraging it to develop its own root system, creating a genetic clone. When a cutting remains green for weeks or months but shows no sign of root growth, it is in a state of stalled growth. This means the cutting is still performing basic photosynthesis and maintaining its current state, but it lacks the necessary stimuli or resources to activate the hormonal and cellular processes required for root formation. The delay is often caused by issues related to the initial preparation, the surrounding environment, or the rooting medium itself.
Errors in Preparing the Cutting
The success of rooting hinges on the quality and location of the initial cut. Roots emerge from specialized tissues near growth points called nodes, making it essential to include at least one node buried in the rooting medium. A clean, sharp cut made just below a node minimizes cellular damage and provides a smooth surface for the callus—the undifferentiated wound tissue—to form, which precedes root development.
A jagged or crushed cut, often resulting from dull tools, damages the vascular tissue and creates an entry point for pathogens, forcing the plant to expend energy on healing rather than rooting. Applying a rooting hormone, which contains synthetic auxins, signals the plant cells at the wound site to begin the cell division process that leads to new root primordia. The physiological age of the cutting also matters; semi-hardwood cuttings are often preferred over very soft, new growth or old, hardened wood.
Inhibiting Environmental Conditions
Even a perfectly prepared cutting will stall if the ambient conditions do not support root initiation. The most immediate threat to a rootless cutting is desiccation because it has no way to draw water from the substrate. High humidity is required, often achieved with a propagation dome or frequent misting, as it reduces the rate of water loss through the leaves.
Light must be bright but indirect; the cutting needs energy for the rooting process, but direct sun will quickly overheat and dehydrate the tissue. Temperature plays a significant role in stimulating cell division. A slightly warmer temperature at the base of the cutting, ideally around 18–20 degrees Celsius, encourages the rapid formation of the initial callus. If the temperature is too low, the metabolic rate slows, and the cutting remains dormant for an extended period.
Substrate and Water Quality Problems
The material the cutting is placed in, whether soil or water, can inhibit root growth. When using a solid medium, the most frequent issue is a lack of aeration, often caused by a substrate that is too dense, like standard garden soil. Overly moist or dense media become waterlogged, leading to anaerobic conditions where oxygen is unavailable to the developing callus tissue, suffocating the emerging roots and inviting fungal infections.
A sterile, well-draining mixture of materials like perlite, vermiculite, or coarse sand is recommended, as it provides stability while allowing air pockets to remain. For water propagation, the water can become stagnant, depleting the dissolved oxygen required for healthy root cells. Contaminants in tap water, such as high levels of chlorine or mineral salts, can also stress the cut end, making it susceptible to rot and preventing hormonal signals from initiating root growth.
Reviving Stalled Cuttings
To encourage a stalled but healthy-looking cutting to finally root, several corrective actions can be taken. If the cutting has been in the same medium for many weeks, gently inspect the base for a developing callus. If the end looks blackened or soft, the issue may be rot, which requires removing the cutting and making a fresh, clean cut higher up the stem. After trimming, the fresh wound should be dipped in a rooting hormone to maximize the chances of successful root formation.
Consider increasing the ambient temperature around the base of the cutting, perhaps by placing the propagation container on a heat mat set slightly above room temperature, which can kickstart cellular activity. If the cutting is in water, ensure the water is changed every few days to replenish oxygen and remove any bacterial film. Finally, if the cutting has excessive foliage, remove some of the lower leaves to redirect the plant’s energy away from maintaining leaf tissue and toward the production of new roots.

