An impact driver can drill into concrete, but only for small holes and light-duty tasks. It’s not the right tool for serious concrete work. Impact drivers deliver rotational force designed for driving screws and fasteners, while concrete drilling calls for the forward hammering action that hammer drills and rotary hammers provide. That said, if you already own an impact driver and need to drill a few small holes, you can make it work with the right bit and some patience.
Why Impact Drivers Struggle With Concrete
The core issue is how the tool generates force. An impact driver uses an internal hammer-and-anvil system that delivers rapid bursts of rotational torque. That spinning force is excellent for driving long screws or loosening stubborn bolts, but it doesn’t help much against solid masonry. Concrete needs to be chipped and pulverized as the bit advances, which requires percussive blows directed forward into the material.
A hammer drill does exactly that. Its mechanism uses interlocking plates that move the bit forward and backward rapidly while it rotates, creating a jackhammer-like tapping motion that breaks apart concrete as the bit spins. This combination of rotation and axial hammering is what makes concrete drilling efficient. An impact driver simply doesn’t produce that forward force, so the bit has to grind its way through on rotation alone.
What You Can Realistically Drill
For holes up to about 1/4 inch in diameter, an impact driver will get the job done in a reasonable amount of time. Plenty of tradespeople report drilling 3/8-inch holes into concrete on a regular basis with a quality cordless impact driver, though it takes noticeably longer than with a hammer drill. Half-inch holes are possible but push the practical limits of what the tool can handle comfortably.
Once you get beyond 1/2 inch, you’re looking at very slow progress and significant strain on the tool. One user attempting a 1-inch hole through brick described spending about an hour and wishing they had rented an SDS rotary hammer instead. For anything like running a cable through a concrete wall, where you might need a 14mm (roughly 9/16-inch) hole through 12 inches of material, an impact driver will technically work but will test your patience and your battery supply.
Use the Right Bit
Standard twist drill bits won’t cut it. You need carbide-tipped masonry bits with a hex shank that fits your impact driver’s quick-change chuck. These are widely available, and manufacturers like Bosch sell multi-piece sets specifically labeled for use with impact drivers on concrete. The carbide tip is the critical feature: it’s hard enough to withstand the abrasion of drilling into masonry without dulling immediately.
Don’t confuse hex-shank masonry bits with SDS bits, which are designed for rotary hammer drills and won’t fit an impact driver. When shopping, look for bits explicitly listed as compatible with both rotary drills and impact drivers, and confirm the “for use on” label includes concrete.
Technique That Saves Your Bit and Your Tool
Start at a slow speed to establish a shallow pilot divot before increasing to full speed. This prevents the bit from wandering across the surface. Apply steady, moderate pressure and let the bit do the work. Pushing harder won’t speed things up and will generate extra heat that dulls the carbide tip faster.
Heat is the main enemy when drilling concrete with an impact driver. Without the hammering action to break up material efficiently, the bit stays in contact with the concrete longer and builds up friction. Pull the bit out periodically to clear dust from the hole and let the tip cool. For deeper holes, applying a small amount of grease to the bit can help transfer heat away from the cutting edge and reduce breakage. If the tool starts cutting out or feeling unusually hot, stop and give it a few minutes. Some impact drivers have thermal protection that shuts the motor down under sustained heavy load.
Keep your bits sharp. A worn carbide tip forces you to push harder, generates more heat, and dramatically slows progress. If a bit that used to cut reasonably well starts feeling like it’s going nowhere, replace it rather than fighting through.
Where Impact Drivers Actually Shine on Concrete
The most practical concrete task for an impact driver isn’t drilling, it’s driving concrete fasteners. Tapcon screws, the most common concrete anchor for light to medium loads, require a two-step process: drill a pilot hole, then drive the screw. An impact driver handles the driving step extremely well. Its high rotational torque seats Tapcon screws quickly without stripping the heads, and installation kits exist that let you switch from drilling to driving without changing tools.
These kits include hex drive adapters and Phillips bits sized for standard 1/4-inch and 5/16-inch Tapcon anchors, and they’re compatible with impact drivers, hammer drills, and rotary hammers. The recessed hex drivers help prevent over-torquing, which can snap the screw head off inside the concrete. If you’re mounting a bracket, shelf, or electrical box to a concrete wall and only need a handful of small pilot holes, an impact driver with a hex-shank masonry bit can handle both steps of the job.
When to Use a Different Tool
If you’re drilling more than a few holes, working with holes larger than 3/8 inch, or boring into particularly hard concrete (as opposed to softer materials like cinder block or lightweight masonry), a hammer drill is the minimum tool for the job. For holes 1/2 inch and above, or for any serious depth, an SDS rotary hammer makes a dramatic difference. What takes an impact driver 20 minutes of grinding might take a rotary hammer 30 seconds.
Renting an SDS hammer drill for a day typically costs $30 to $50 at most home improvement stores and is worth every penny if you have more than a couple of holes to drill. Your impact driver will last longer, your bits will stay sharper, and you’ll finish the job in a fraction of the time.